Nordkapp 2010

Down to Earth ?

2011-08-23T08:48:00.000-07:00

Never think for one minute that friends in Northern Europe are holiday friendships. That is not what we did. A stranger may be a friend you are meeting for the first time. Be aware of this always. Last year I made a journey of a lifetime, and met wonderful people along the way. The thing is, I went back! 2 Months is long enough to learn an area and get a feel for a culture, and to develop relationships further. I joined the MC club. Correction. Friends joined me up! They didn't have to do that, but they did. It is a wonderful gift to be treasured. I have a second home. A club house where I belong, and roads I love to ride my bike down with friends. Will I move to Sweden? Eventuelt. I love the country very much. Not now anyway though, and who can tell what the future holds for us all. Life is what hits you around the back of the head while you are making plans. I can see my next year ahead of me all being well, and that is in England. Is that a hardship? Not at all. Old Friends and family. Familiar places. A typical English country pub that will have a fantastic log fire going in the middle of winter. A fire to sit around and tell stories. To catch up on news, and to make plans.

Am I going back? Oh yes, and it puts a big smile on my face thinking of it. Saturday evening last week and the gang 'phoned from their weekend traffen. All having a wonderful time by the sound of it. Thanks for the call guys. See you soon.

What of Mum? Forgive an old hairy biker a little sentimentality please. I promise to use my heated grips sparingly, never to moan about the weather, and to do my best to keep both wheels on the black stuff at all times. She is never coming back, but I carry her in my heart, always. It's time to move on.

What of Vatta? I could say that he has been the silent partner in this years adventure. Maybe I have written in such a way as to imply that he has been hiding away, healing quietly as I took charge and looked after him. Is that true? No. Not at all. Who did you meet when we were all getting drunk and partying hard at the weekends? Who did you meet when we sang The Streets of London at four in the morning? If you looked in your wing mirrors and Elsa was virtually flat on the road coming out of a corner riding hard behind you, who was at the controls? Seen any chaos? I can be organised and sensible, adult, but sorry, not this summer. The thing is, if I ever get him completely under control, it would be a sad day indeed.

It's important to be a child sometimes.

Back to Old Blighty

2011-08-18T04:45:00.000-07:00

The early hours of Monday morning I was awake with the pouring rain hammering on the roof of the cabin. Not a good omen for a motorcycle journey of 379 miles. At seven in the morning it was still pouring with rain and the breakfast news was showing pictures of flooding in Gothenborg. My Swedish is very poor indeed, but the forecast appeared to say clearing from the West during the day. Some times you just have to get on with it.

The first leg to the ferry at Helsingborg was wet. It varied from torrential to drizzle, but never stopped completely. A comfort break drinking hot tea through the face plate of my helmet is memorable for the wrong reasons. As the ferry arrived in Denmark the sun was shining, and it stayed dry (just about) all afternoon. My clothes actually dried out before I reached Henrik and Anna's. 200 miles across Denmark and it is an easy journey. Toll between Zealand and Funen and arriving at my friends house for "Tea Time". Nice.

It has been just over two months since I saw them on the way out. A wonderful dinner of roast beef (if only beef was always this good), a beer or two, and convivial chat in good company. I really hope we get to ride together sometime. We shall look for that opportunity. I spent Tuesday exploring Jutland, making my way across from the east coast to the west with it's sand dunes and resorts. It could be the east coast of England. Very similar indeed. Finally after tiring myself out on the bike all day, I arrived at the port at Esbjerg to catch the ferry back to Harwich. Meeting fellow bikers in the queue in the rain. You never know who you are going to meet. It's a good crowd and I have company for the voyage. Talk of bikes, trips, English riots, and how our country seems to be going to hell in a handcart. News from home is so depressing. Some say we have to understand what made them riot. Hang em up by their thumbs I say!!

Noon in Harwich and it's a dry day. I know the route home from here well. I worked out this way for some time, and still have friends in the East. Adjusting to driving on the left took no time at all. Soon I was humming alone at a progressive pace, eager to get this last leg done. A break at a supermarket at Bury St Edmonds for basic provisions. My fridge at home is empty, as it should be. Also a card for my nephew. It's his birthday in two days. I remembered, got the card, now all I have to do is deliver it. Three hours gets me into Warwickshire with no fuss at all. This has been a very easy return from Jonkoping, in stark contrast to last years adventure.

I surprise the hell out of my little sister, turning up on a fully loaded bike, unshaven and needing a cup of tea. I even remembered to get the card I bought out of my luggage and hand it over to the lad himself, who popped in to see his Mum. Homecoming into my street and neighbours greeted me with a beer. I guy could want no more. Friends on either side of the North Sea. I am truly blessed. At last bed before I fall over exhausted. Let tomorrow take care of itself.

Homeward Bound

2011-08-14T02:18:00.000-07:00

It's throwing it down outside. Lars is tiling his roof, but he has to stop now surely. Inside the cabin I am trying to make sense of all of my belongings. That which came with me and the stuff I have acquired. I hope the goods I have consumed is greater than the goods purchased and wanted. We shall see. It looks promising.

boB, Satnav Isabella (another tiff with Jane) and I are route planning. Vatta is making friends with Little Elk (?????). Elsa stands in the pooring rain getting clean and not caring. Tomorrow I finally hang the last bits on her frame, say my final Vi ses, and begin the long journey to Aahus, Denmark, and a chance to catch up with Henrik and family. It makes the going so much easier and nicer, because I feel the trip isn't over while I have people to see. I hope it stops raining. I have a final visit to the VMCK club house for coffee with the gang later. Stiff British upper lip, to brace the wobbly bottom one I hope!

"Of all the many human relationships the sweetest of all is friendship. For it is born not out of duty or blood tie, but the simple delight in the company of another."

It takes nothing away from family. It is it's own thing. Thanks to all where ever you live, and how ever we met, and how ever long ago or recent. It is what this trip has been about. Riding motorcycles and enjoying the company of friends. Laying down foundations for the future.

I have a sister and friends in England who have held the fort for me for nine weeks so far. I look forward to seeing them very much, and am hugely grateful for their help. Tuesday I board the boat to Harwich, and then the final leg home. I'll write about the final journey later. It is not over until it's over. I learend that the hard way last year.

The rain has slowed to a drizzle. Dare I take one more long forest walk down to the lake. Maybe say Hej to Roland and see how his house renervation looks on my last day? I think so, if I go now.

Vatterbygdens Motorcykelklubb

2011-08-12T01:49:00.000-07:00

My time here is winding down now. The weather is stormy and cool. It feels like Autumn already. I have one or two things left to do before I leave this wonderful place for this year.

A meeting of the members of VMCK at the club house. On the agenda is included my full membership. I agree to do my part with the work of running the club house and campsite, even though I live in England. They voted on another new member first, Carina. She is in. everyone said yes. Next it is me. My name is called and I stand. The proceedings are in Swedish of course, but these days I can follow the conversation (more or less). I say Ja in the right places comfirming my details. Then the vote and I too am in. The feeling of belonging is real. What a wonderful gift. Tack. I am so pleased. I look back to Limatraffen registration last week. I thought I had a real chance of the prize for the furthest travelled motorcyclist, all the way from England. Nope. The guy said I was VMCK from Jonkoping therefore 450k only. Cool!

Today starts mundane. Washing clothes ready to pack tomorrow. I have mixed feelings. My heart is heavy to leave, but I know I will see everyone again. This is just Vi ses. I am keen to see friends and family in England so need to go. In the mean time I have a grill to go to tonight. I'll get some rest. It's a long way home.

The images of home showing mindless rioting disgust me. As an old Liberal I am so sad at the way people have taken the piss with the freedoms we won for them. The Nanny State has bred fecklessness. My personal brand of Liberalism though is the hard edged European variety. If you cross the line, expect to be punished. If only!!!

Evil wins when good men stay quiet. Have we had enough yet? Our politicians seem to be hard of hearing. We need to tell them loud and clear what we need from them. Maybe we should replace them at elections, with independant ordinary people!

The Streets of London

2011-08-09T04:45:00.000-07:00

"Let me take you by the hand and lead you through the streets of London.
I'll show you something that will make you change your mind."

99%

2011-08-08T02:54:00.000-07:00

The trouble is caused by 1% of bikers who get the rest of us a bad name. The chapters that make up that 1% no surprise are proud of their status. We met some on the road. No names here.

I felt just as proud when I met a nice guy at the Traffen displaying a 99% badge. We are proud to belong to the 99% that cause no trouble. We see the others, and just move along. No fuss.

I know Monica wanted to fight them really, but we held her back :-)

The Dawn Chorus

2011-08-08T02:18:00.000-07:00

Lima certainly know how to do a Traffen. Great music and dancing, kept us well fed, breathaliser available before leaving. A Traffen is what it is. It isn't anything else.

Lars foretold the future. The guy is an oracle. Lars said I would ride 300 miles north into the wilderness, get very drunk, take two days to recover, then ride 300 miles back to sleep a lot. The only thing he missed was the torrential rain in both directions, and the supurb company. As I rode through the pooring rain heading north...............

Sorry about this:

Thor the god of thunder was riding upon his filly.
"I'M THOR" he cried, and the horse replied,
"Your forgot your thaddle thilly!

It is not compulsory to get totally drunk, and I resolved not to. If others want to do that fine, I will show restraint. As we pulled up outside the football ground where the motorcycle meeting is held, I knew it was going to be difficult. A ten foot chain link fence kept the drunken bikers in. It looked like Guantanamo except that the inmates were dressed in biker leathers, and very happy indeed. "HEJ KEVIN!" Oh shit. The drunken bikers in question are OURS! Boy they are having fun, and have been for some considerable time. Having registered and eased the bike through the hole where tthe turnstile should be, I faced the wet, grassy drop to where the hoard watched my final approach. I didn't drop Elsa. It was however hard to get her safely onto her stand holding the glass of whisky someone had thrust into my gauntleted hand while I was still on the bike. Yikes!

Happy bikers helped me get my tent up in the rain. I counted drinks. I can count quite high in Swedish. You could feel the energy in the crowd as we waited for the dinner hall/dance floor to open. We're off! What a fabulous night.

I fogot to go to bed. So did others. Two young guys were playing their guitars to an appreciative group well into the early hours. As I picked up the lyrics to Streets of London, the sun was rising in the East. I really let it go. An English voice singing a very English song. I honestly didn't care just then. The moment was very sweet indeed.

A mention for my riding companions for the weekend, Linus and Monica. This pair cross continents together. I can see how they do it. Their riding style is light and efficient. No fuss, but progressing nicely at a fair pace. Threading their way forward. Travelling with the traffic, but not in it. Very nice people as well.

Potato Moose

2011-08-02T11:50:00.000-07:00

Recipe:

Take one thick cut slice of raw potato. Place between teeth with as much potato protruding as possible. Be very still and wait quietly as the moose approaches. You are in for the scariest, biggest wet kiss you ever had!!!

The Elk Park has a gift shop no surprise, that sells little soft toy elks. Imagine half a dozen bikers with cuddly toy elks strapped to handlebars or luggage. We had a great day.

Thanks to Eva, Goran and Benjie for their hospitality. They never expected a stary Englishmen in the group. It feels right to keep time at their place private. A great weekend riding with Lennart, Janne & Eva, Linus & Monica, and Per, as well as Eva with little Benjie on the back, and Goran riding shotgun. This wonderful warm summer goes on a while longer, continuing to deliver smiles, friendship and great roads.

Raising the Roof

2011-07-27T04:30:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was Ernst's last day of Semester so we tired ourselves out riding the region East of lake Vattern. 55mph is enough to enjoy serious bend swinging in the forest twisties. A cable ferry after a large lunch, and try not to fall asleep over the handle bars as we ride back to Fagerhult.

Lars is building a very large and solid car port. My little cabin would fit inside no problem. The roof beams have to go on today. Ernst at over two meters tall (I'm guessing) , and myself, are recruited. The sun shines and five guys raise a roof. Coffee and ice creams and a neighbour arriving to look at the project.

The forest is carpeted with Lindenberries and Blueberries. The first Chanterelles are ready for collecting but you have to know where to look. Can you imagine the sauce I can make with these plus butter and wine? Lars hunts. We need to talk. There was a hare on the lawn last week. Hare in Swedish is Hare.

I'm staying local for a few days, especially since the sun is shining. Besides, I have an invite for a barbecue and lawn camping for Saturday night. It's a hard life if you don't weaken.

Smorgelsbord

2011-07-27T03:58:00.000-07:00

Believing myself pretty much recovered from the summer cold I made the journey North East to Stockholm. I met Kirsi in brilliant sunshine that would come and go over the next few days. Afternoon turned to evening as she took me for a mini tour of harbours and marinas. Coffee in the early evening sunshine. Rigging creaking in the breeze accompanying our conversation.

Thursday morning arrived along with the knowledge that I was still unwell. I had been coughing a lot during the night. The weather was poor and we would see rain and fog during our cruise of the archipelego. Kirsi had used the Viking Line ferries to Finland to assemble a very nice cruise. Outward leg to the Finnish island of Aland (It's not really an A, but I don't have the Swedish letter with the circle over the A. The sound is more like E), then swap ships and return. These cruises can cost as much as £5 ! Today less I believe. Buffet breakfast still only half awake, then a morning watching the dozens of islands slip by to port. Change boats, a beer on the desk in rare sunshine, then go to the dining room for the Smorgelsbord. Prawns, Salmon, Herrings, Lump fish caviar I think. Wonderful roast fillet of beef, pass on the sirloin. Many hot and cold Finnish and Swedish canapes, and wine and beer included. Help yourself to refills. This is deffinately what to do with a rainy day in Stockholm.

Swedish and Finnish people are no different to Brits when faced with an as much as you can eat buffet. Some will always eat to ridiculous excess. Did the young woman loading a dinner plate with every dessert available plus all of the toppings and sweet sauces, realise that as well as enthusiastically rushing from cubby towards obese, she was both holding up an ever growing queue, and also providing the entertainment. An English builder at a sunday carvary could not have out eaten the girl! Pass the bucket!!

Friday the sun shone so it was time to set off on foot to explore the city. Kirsi was an excellent host and guide. If she ever needs a new job, she should go and talk to the office of tourism. We walked our feet off as you do in a great city that you have never visited before. The cafe culture in the evening was a pleasent surprise, even if the price of the beer wasn't. I didn't care, for just the one drink. It was a fabulous day.

The weather was cooler on my last day, perfect for riding the bikes. Environs describes what we did with the day nicely. The royal palace, island hopping, and bumping into reality from the outside world on a little ferry that should have been idylic. So many nice people in the world of all races. What to do with the fanatics of all pursuasions? Lock them up in mental institutions as the dangerous lunatics they are. Keep them locked up for as long as they hold their murderous beliefs to protect the rest of us. No excuses of culture or religion. A lunatic is a lunatic! Coffee with Kirsi's friends in an orchard overlooking an inlet, listening to Mick grumbling about the Elk eating his apples last season. I am a long way from Warwickshire for sure. Riding home on Elsa and Babsan in a little more sunshine. Has summer returned eventuelt?

My sincere thanks to Kirsi for her hospitality and friendship. See you next time.

Oslo

2011-07-25T23:52:00.000-07:00

I just cannot continue my blog without writing about the most significant and appalling news story in years. I hope I chose the right words to do it.

Everyone knows where they were and what they were doing when certain historic and appalling things happened. 9/11, 7/7, The ousting of Margaret Thatcher, The deaths of Elvis and Princess Diana maybe. It happened again this weekend.

The question was "Why is the flag over the royal palace flying at half mast?" We had our bikes loaded onto a little ferry between islands in the Stockholm archipelego. The sun was shining. It was a lovely morning. The Swedish guy riding the Spyder had just returned from Oslo. He looked aghast as he gave us the news we had not heard, in Swedish. I learned some new words that break my heart to know at this stage. He then kindly spoke English and appalled me with what had happened.

What does an ordinary guy write in his blog about the underlying problems within Northern Europe that lead to an act of terrorism like this? For that is what this is. More terrorism. The answer is absolutely nothing. I cannot, and that is the problem. Ordinary people stay quiet and leave it to the crazies to have their debate with bombs and bullets.

Following the Smiley

2011-07-19T04:14:00.000-07:00

Five minutes after walking through the door into the appartment and the big guy put a whisky in my hand. The hospitality of Anders and Maria is very nice indeed, as is their home. Another twenty minutes and young Andreas had joined us, also now with a whisky in his hand. We had a nice evening crossing the North Sea together a month ago. Where did that month go? Tomorrow we will ride together north up the coast, collecting Pelle en route, but tonight we can push back and relax. A bus ride into Goteborg Centre to a very nice restaurant. Later I would yet again be mugged by the Beer Fairy, but for now we are having a civilised steak dinner with a couple of large Samual Adams. Very nice indeed in the early evening sunshine that replaced this afternoons heavy rain.

At some point if you are not paying attention, particularly if you are men, Convivial drinks with friends becomes boozing. Where is the line? We all have Viking blood, so no idea! All I can say is that after a wonderful night I woke up in an unfamiliar room confused. The Beer fairy had been, emptied my wallet, hit me on the head with a sledge hammer and filled my mouth with dirt. Over breakfast it became apparent that I was not the only one. Anders was also suffering. Worse actually. Exactly which part of "I'm going drinking with some Swedish Trucker Bikers" had I not understood. Late on he met Vatta. In a squeaky little voice Vatte said "I can't drink any more". The big guy heroically drank mine as well.

As soon as we are sober enough we set off on the iron horses to hook up with Andreas and Pelle. Andreas has also been attacked by the Beer Fairy. Pelle who missed the tomfoolery of last night has no sympathy for us. He stayed home laying a wooden floor in a house he has gutted. He is living in caravan until he can move back in. I am very impressed with his project indeed.

It is simple. Anders leads. On his number plate is a flourescent yellow Smiley. We follow the Smiley. The big Yamaha is a beast indeed and manages to look small riden by Anders. I follow up on Elsa. Andreas next on the K1200S, and bringing up the rear with no fuss and all efficiency is Pelle on the big silver Ninja. We wind our way north along the intricate shore of the Bohuslan Coast. Following the edges of Fjords. Hugging the rocky outcrops into harbours, some of which take my breath away. Clear blue skies and it's warming up. My mild hangover is clearing but I am nasel indeed. If I hadn't got a hangover I would say I had a cold. Northward for hours, slowley adding the miles to the return journey. Late lunch on a very smart harbour front where the big boats belong to well healed Norwegians. Norwegian can be heard in the restaurants as well. Prices reflect the clientel. The wonders of oil money. This coast is as beautiful as any I have ever seen. No surprise it looks like Norway with which it shares a border further north. At times inland I could be in New Zealand.

The afternoon is slipping away and we are more than a hundred miles from home. Shunning the highways in favour of the little twisties we start back, following the smiley. This time we are moving at pace. The others have big powerful machines capable of high performance. Elsa is a gentle giant. Still riding number two I can demonstrate that evenin if left a little on the straights, I catch up in the corners. Elsa is not far off the pace of the sportsters. I never cease to be impressed at how the RT gets into the corners every time. Just exactly where in this machine did BMW install the cornering demon? If there is a problem it is as always I over think. No problem. Let Vatta loose for the evening. Follow the smiley. Yipee! It is a long time since I pushed it a bit, and the adrenalyn rush is amazing. I did back off from the smiley a tad though. I need that extra half a second reaction time. Getting slower old man? That or just slightly less mad. My hangover went ages ago, but I deffinately have something not nice developing in my nasel spaces. I suspect a virus. I pit stop for fuel and we all agree our energy levels are dropping. We switch to the highway to finish the journey, common sense prevailing.

Retiring to a much needed bed, there is no no doubt. I have a cold or something.

Sunday morning and light rain. After breakfast with Anders and Maria, we are off sightseeing around Goteborg. Andreas joins us, and Anders provides the tour guide commentary. The quality of English spoken by Swedish friends never ceases to amaze me. I will mention Maria's wonderful cooking here. firstly because it was absolutely delicious, and secondly because I hope for more another time.

By now unfortunately my throat feels as if it has been cut with a rusty knife. I have an invite to catch up with a friend in Torsby, but contagious and in pain, and with torrential rain, I decide to head home to Fagerhult immediately. I know this body well. I have had it a long time. I have experienced viruses that felt like this one, and I know I am going to get worse very soon. I'm heading for my bed!

Thor the god of thunder knows me well. I am his Motor Cycling plaything. "Ah the little one has his bike out again" his immortalness observes. "Let me see if he can stay upright through this shit". Horizontal rain is his speciality, with buffeting wind. It's OK. I do storms very well indeed. I am not nervous about cornering. I know where the limit is. Elsa does wet just fine as well. Would a Triumph Tiger 800 do this well? Eek! Elsa was listening. I said it out load! Where is the thunder and lightning Thor? Lost your hammer?

Finally I limp into Fagerhult unable to swallow any more. I have a temperature and feel absolutely aweful. Bed and fitful sleep. Rest for two days hoping to be OK to ride up to Stockholm on Wednesday.

Isabella

2011-07-18T06:44:00.000-07:00

An hour from my destination and The heavens open again. I deploy Elsa's electronically controlled wind shield to maximum increase my velocity a little. The lashing stops and it gets quiet. I close off the vents on my helmet. The pollen filters let the rain through. The anti misting is working. I'm wearing a space suit and I'm used to doing this. The God of Thunder knows me well. I think he likes to play with me when he gets bored, which is often.

Remember my flirtation with the Triumph Tiger 800? As you were. Sorry Elsa old girl. My head was turned by a younger flirtier model. I'm a guy. It happens. Now I remember which side my bread is buttered! The big halogen light array, profile and speed of the bike and no one is pulling out onto me. I drive an Autobahn bike for a reason. I do Autobahns in the rain. A lot! No more talk of new bikes. At least this trip anyway. Sorry gal.

Satnav Isabella informes me in Spanish that we are arriving. The rain is easing off a little, and Anders is already coming out to greet me for the weekend. Before I move on to the weekend, maybe I should introduce Isabella. It is not only Vatta that works magic. Last night playing around with the GPS I found a very curious setting under Tools. Apparently Jane was not allowing U turns. She prefered giving me gravel and dirt roads, bridle tracks or peoples back gardens!! I wasn't amused. How many times had this set up error scared the pants off me? Retribution? You bet. I speak Spanish and Isabella sounds sexy, hence Janes transformation. A me mai gusto mucho Isabella!

Question: How is Isobella going to cope with Swedish? I tried Satnav Ingrid before selecting Isabella. Ingrid confirmed what I already know. I can't understand Swedish. I need lessons to crack this charming language.

Microsoft Misery

2011-07-18T06:23:00.000-07:00

What is it with Microsoft and it's updates???? Is it just me?

It's a hell of a long way from Kalmar to Goteburg. Sweden is a large country. It doesn't need much of a motorway system. Long straight highways through the mega forest are enough. The double trucks rumbling on forever. I need two stops this leg, so I find a Macdonalds for a half hour coffee break to catch up with emails. Some of these are important. Am I seeing a friend on Monday? How is the house sale going? OK for Stockholm later?

Macdonalds delivers. Reasonably priced coffee and reliable WiFi. It is a strain to use it though due to an infestation of under 18 month olds. What is happening today? Is it bring a baby get a discount week? There are maybe 25 of the noisy little things, squealing, screaching, whaling and making the place sticky and stinky. I find the least sticky table I can and start up boB. DOWNLOADING UPGRADES. A very hot coffee lasts twenty minutes or so, which is less time than microsoft takes preventing me from using this important tool. This is of course followed by reconfiguring and "please Don't turn off your computor", as if the geeks know exactly how much they are annoying customers. After half an hour of this moronic process, I force a shutdown and get on my way, nothing achieved except a slight headache, and sticky elbows.

Do I like babies? YES! But I couldn't eat a whole one!!

A second stop and another attempt to access my emails. No go. boB needs this session to unscramble himslef after I forced a shutdown upon him.

A plea to Microsoft. Please get a grip!

Oland

2011-07-18T05:46:00.000-07:00

I'm at home in Fagerhult for two days, down with a summer cold. I'm resting up to be fit to go to Stockholm on Wednesday. Time to catch up on the blog for sure.

Aki arrived from Finland on Tuesday. Is it really a year since he, Sami and I were leaning into a force 8 at the cape? By the way Sami, I hope that your motorcycle trip with your wife went brilliantly. If so, you have something I am very envious of indeed. That said Aki and I did OK with a years catching up over a beer or two, then planning the route for tomorrow.

We have three days only this trip. Neither of us could get a larger trip together this year. With time short we took the highway down to Kalmar. It was Aki who spotted the Moose, and it obligingly waitied for us to turn around and go back for a second long look. Not long enough to get the camera out though. We did Kalmar castle sort of. We did it in a bloke way. It costs a lot to get in, so we walked around looking from the outside, then spent the entrance money of drinks and food.

Finally onto the island of Oland and a ride South to find the Vandrarhem (hostel) we are booked into for the night. I'll say here and now Aki is an easy travelling companion, well organised and flexible. Between the two of us very little discussion is needed to plan what happens next, or who does what. It works out nicely without conversation. A relaxing meal and the inevitable beer, followed by a good nights sleep, set us up for what was to follow the next day.

What followed was one of those lousy biking weather days you get from time to time. Howling wind and steady rain coming in off the Baltic. To hell with it. We have this time and this time only, and Oland to explore. It's a big island and we take most of the day to do it in full wet weather gear. Never a complaint (is that true? Maybe we did a little). The moors and dry stone walls could be in the wilder corners of the British Isles. The Baltic is having much the same effect as the Atlantic back home. Mid afternoon we reach Byxelkrok with its gift shops and restaurants strung out along the shore. What follows is something all bikers have experienced. We are holed up in our cabin for several hours waiting for the rain to slow. We just got on with it, talking, reading, working with our GPS's on routes for tomorrow. The rain never slackened off and we got hungry, so inevitably we plunged out into the storm, got good and wet, and ultimately found a fantastic buffet dinner. The restaurant was large and staffed mainly with Asian workers. There was Korean Kim Chi on the menu which both of us are familiar with and enthusiastic about. Green mussels from the Pacific and prawns stir fried and we are well on our way to three plates of carefully chosen goodies. Buffets make their money when customers load their plates with carbs. We don't apparently. Another absolute soaking on the way back to the cabin.

It's hard to keep track of Aki and the Super Duke as the light strobes through the trees. The sun shines in near perfect summer weather as we enjoy the last few hours of this short but excellent trip. The cars hardly seem awake yet and are easy overtakes. The roads could have been curvier, and the weather better. We don't know the area, and divining the best motor cycling roads is not easy.

Three times this trip a Finn and a Brit riding together actually got comment, and smiles from the locals. People expect companions to be from the same place. We cross the continent for fun. That is what we do. Human Pan Europeans. We finished the trip with coffee and cakes in the square in the centre of Kalmar, then GPS' set we said our goodbyes and headed off in opposite directions, each to get on with whatever the next year has for us. See you next time Aki. Say HI to Sami when you see him. I WILL make Finland soon, but not this trip I guess.

Bend Swinging

2011-07-12T03:45:00.000-07:00

A full day out on the bikes, to Lacko Castle on Lake Vanern. Satnav Jane is jealous because Ernst can plan a route on his GPS, with no highways or gravel roads. Such sophistication is beyond me at the moment, but I will learn. It's like my "Get Lost" game, but just follow the leader. I'm still a follower. I don't expect that to change this trip. My energy levels are low.

The little lanes are a joy. Bend Swinging is one of the great pleasures of motorcycling. Seeing the world from 45%, this way then that. In my mirrors I can see Janne learning his Wing all the way over. rspect to the guy. That is a very large motorcycle indeed.

Coffee and more cinnemon cakes. Unfortunatley "someone" forgot the cups. Forgiven though considering the same guy brought the coffee and cakes. No problem I am Swiss trained and equipped! With my swiss army knife I make cups out of water bottles. Perfect! Back onto the bikes in the sunshine and more bend swinging, heading steadily north west. There is a trail of diesel on the road, spilled from the fuel tank of a truck I guess. I have seen riders come off on that stuff, so my nerve is shaken. I slow and straighten up, also now aware of the gravel at the roads edges. My nerve has gone a little for a while, until the road clears up. I really don't like diesel. I got away with one slick years ago, fishtailing horribly.

Half the day is gone and hunger and thrist beginning to guide us. A lake side harbour and a small restaurant with a sun baked upper deck to watch the world go by. Hot Smoked Fisk Salad. Perfect on a day like this. Swedish words are breaking through at last. I understand a little, but still cannot manage sentances. I am better off than the dog, but probably cannot match a two year old child yet. Fed and watered we make the last few miles to this awesome castle. Very impressive indeed. Sightseeing, ice creams and coffee Then a blast home down the highways. We are starting to eat into beer time.

We all ride for our respective homes and showers, and Christian bless the guy, gets his car out and drives miles to pick us all up for an evening in Jonkoping. There is no return bus to Fagerhult, so I am spending the night at his place. Pre bar drinks and putting the world to rights.I thought we had forgotten the pub, given up on it. Culture! 11 pm is fine to go out. Gods help me! We survived and the hangover was mild, easily remedied by a walk along the beach in the morning, then another very quiet Sunday at my cabin. A pattern has emerged!

Let me say now, one of the joys of a long stay like this is the impromptue invites and visits to friends homes. I am very lucky indeed and enjoying the company. Thanks to Johan for a very nice evening indeed up in Kaxholmen. Great views across the lake and good company. Tony and I were misbehaving eventuelt , goofing off, in a very good mood indeed. The weather is holding and this summer just rolls on. I wish I could bottle this and take it home with me. Cannot, so will just have to keep coming back for more.

What is this wondeful place trying to say to me? I can't make it out. It must be the language problem. Or maybe I'm listening wrong. Riding home along the lake shore, through the city and up onto the 195. I am getting to know my way around these days.

Tiger Tiger Shining Bright

2011-07-07T08:07:00.000-07:00

Motorbikes are not girls. Elsa doesn't mind if I look at other motorbikes. That is just as well, because I have been straying. Only in my mind, and a little internet surfing. Bad I know.

Several times this trip I have turned back faced with Swedish country gravel roads. my experience is that if they are bad where they meet the highway, they sure as hell will be worse later on. Elsa is just too big and heavy (sorry gal) to be good at these roads. I feel a pang of jealousy thinking about Dave's GS, or Aki & Sami on their KTM's. I have the advantage with weather protection and shear ability to carry cargo. Elsa's pillion is one of the most comfortable in the motorcycling world. What do I do with it? Plonk my tent and camping equipment on it!

Turned back once too often, at the club house I happened to see a test review of the "smaller" adventure bikes. The big ones are too much of a handful to be seriously off road in my opinion. The old Triumph Tigers, the BMW R1200GS. If I was built myself to Viking proportions, no problem, but I'm a scrawny smallish Brit! BMW F800GS, KTM Adventure 990, Triumph Tiger 800. ????? I missed that one. Hinckley Triumph bless their British cotton socks have produced a new smaller Tiger as a serious adventure tourer/off roader. The more I look the more I realise that I may be falling in love. This could get to be more serious than my teenage crush on Debbie Harry of Blondie in the seventies!

Steady on chap! This is only a motorcycle. What ever. I don't have the money. I need to find work, but sooner or later I imagine I will be test riding a KTM, a smaller BM, and the Tiger.

Hell. I need a cold shower!

I had a horrible thought. What id boB tells Satnav Jane, and Jane tells Elsa. It's OK. Elsa is a motorbike, not a girl! I may be nervous on my next game of "get lost" though.

Visingso

2011-07-07T07:41:00.000-07:00

It's great when a special day just sort of happens unplanned. I called Ernst to see what he was doing. The weather forcast for tomorrow is not good, so I wanted to get out on the bike today. Ernst was having a similar thought, but was on his way into town shopping. He would call back after lunch. Time then for a four mile walk to the lake and back. I have my exercise regime under control again. A light lunch of salami and salad half eaten when the 'phone rang. Meet at Osten's at 13:15. Game on!

In my imagination, this is how the summer should be.

Osten had a flask of coffee, fresh cinnamon cakes and idea to ride on over to Granna to catch the ferry to the island of Visingso in the middle of Lake Vattern. Fresh cinnamon cakes may not be the biker image, but what the hell. If they are like the ones Lars and family make, I am deffinitely enthusiastic. Filling the tank first we hit the highway around the top of Jonkoping. No time to lose. The day was slipping away. It is amazing how much "day" you can get out of a few hours around midsummer. It's light until 11pm so totally do-able. Ferry crossing in full summer sun. The weather is smiling upon us at last. Cold drinks at the terminal on the otherside and we toottle south. The views are beautiful, the sun warm on my face, Elsa sounds happy. All is well with the world, and we still have cinnamon cakes to look forward to. Did I see Ernst up ahead walzing his VStrom? Elsa and I lay down some big S's anyway. No one is looking! Boys and toys.

A castle. A lake. Another unbeatable Swedish view, and an empty table for three friends to share coffee and cakes. Conversation is light. Not much is needed this afternoon. Eventually the sun burning my head (the guys object to my Norwegian army peak cap!) we set off north. There is a church with a tower to climb which gives stunning views of the whole island and the lake shores miles away in all directions. Photos later, but I always say that. Up north and onto a gravel road. Teeth gritted, there is no turning back from this one, a beach to ourselves for more leisure. The afternoon feels to stretch on forever, but eventually we are back at the little harbour for the return ferry. It's not over yet though because hungry, there is a restaurant meal to be had. Flat fish stuffed with shrimps, breadcrumbed and served with fries. It is not fine dining, but it IS fine food, if that makes any sense. I can feel the summer stretching long ahead of me, but it is an illusion. Summers are short. Autumn will come. But that can wait. Live in the here and now. Enjoy the fish and friends.

Life is made of moments like these. The "REAL LIFE" everyday stuff is just in fill between magic moments. Stomachs full, and plotting more trips, we head off home, via the club house for coffee and to talk about our wonderful day out on the bikes.

White Van Man

2011-07-07T05:24:00.000-07:00

I can't let this pass without mentioning it. We all know them. Sorry to the decent guys who happen to drive a white van in support of their jobs, and are thoroughly decent. I want to talk for a minute or two about the arseholes in white vans who bully the rest of us on the roads. Guys whose driving behavior is properly described as dangerous driving, and who if caught deserve prosecution. You know the sort of guy, speeding, tailgating, using his mobile phone while eating his fish and chips! Where is this going?

On Monday Ernst and I were rolling along the 195 Southbound between Hjo and Fogerhult. Orderly overtakes on the monster timber trucks performed by each of us in turn. I saw the van rocketing up behind me as Ernst performed an overtake. A bend and double white lines prevented me from following. White Van Man was up my backside, lights blazing, in seconds. Just how fast had he been going? He was on my rear mudguard as I moved left ready for the overtake. I hesitated because instinct and experience told me what was going to happen next. He hammered past, then swung in on to me, forcing me to break. He took my space, pushing me further back, before barreling past the huge truck in a reckless overtake. I was honestly surprised to meet this foul disgusting behaviour in the middle of knowwhere in Sweden. They have them to?

No they don't! The arse hole was British!!

Thanks mate! You saw I was a Brit biker and stuffed me anyway. You are a low life disgrace in somebody elses country. I hope you got food poisoning from the dodgy hamburger you were eating!

Annoyed? You bet.

British Small Arms

2011-07-04T11:28:00.000-07:00

VMCK hosted the BSA club meet this weekend. It has been a regular fixture for many long years. This year less of them, their numbers bolstered by Triumphs, An Arial and a Matchless. I'd have loved to see a Norton as well but hey. Bertil's excellent old Nimbus was there and looking well.... excellent. To hear the old British bikes running brought back fond memories of my teenage years. Ride outs planed with a girl on the pillion, then cancelled because the bike broke down!

The VMCK gang provided breakfasts, a barbecue and extra party goers for the evening. Many thanks to the two pretty teenage girls who recruited me onto their tug of war team in the unlikely hope of winning. We actually won our first bout, so well done us! Note to self. I am an agressive, competitive little sod.

Those who could still stand jived the night away, and some of the morning as well. Sunday for me arrived with no serious hangover, but absolutely exhausted. "Success!"

Monday morning I took off into the forest on Elsa. I had a plan. Switch Jane off, get lost, then find my way home. Ernst 'phoned half way through this process "where are you?". My plan worked well. I didn't have a bloody clue. I suggested we meet at Hjo which is just daft when you don't know where you are. When I switched Jane on she gave me the surprise news. How the hell did I get all the way over here? By switching her off and riding willy nilly for an hour. That is how. Ice cream and a coffee in Hjo and I was forgiven. "Where have you been?" got the honest answer. "I'm not sure. It was West though". Thanks for sharing an afternoons hooning around on motorbikes Ernst. Let's do it again ASAP.

I have an idea for an adventure next year. See which way the wind is blowing and ride for a week in that direction. Problem. I live on an island!

Zen Dog

2011-06-29T13:26:00.000-07:00

The motorbikes rumbled past as the two Rough Collies looked on. "Wow! two wheelie things, lots! ( excited waggy tail). The female liked motorbikes.
"yeh. I see" said the sage older male.
"nice noise. Clever humans?
"Not so clever. The third one has salami in his topbox he has forgotten to eat".
"oh yes, I smell it too. Big shiney. Red. WOW"
"It's OK but I used to have a Huskvana in a previous life" Said the wise older male. He was hoping for enlightenment this time around, which is difficult for a dog.

Zen Dog says "Only sex is better than having your tummy tickled"

Nine motorbikes rumbled on into the setting sun, not knowing the stir they had just caused.

Night Riders

2011-06-29T01:39:00.001-07:00

We met at the Preem filling station at 5:30 PM. Some of the guys have hotdogs already to sustain them for the evenings trip. 11 of us are travelling 75 miles to the speedway to watch local teams Elit Vetlander and dackarna battle it out. We are not hanging around. It's late enough and we need to get there. It is always special when so much hot iron takes to the road in a gang. None of us are small. There are some seriously large machines on the road tonight. We travel with the traffic, not in it, if that makes any sense. We do not move like cars. Why would we? We thread our way through the busy parts, and blast along the (almost) empty Swedish highways in formation. Outside left, followed by an inside wingman. Tight. Free parking for bikers has to be right.

It is years since I went to a speedway meeting. It is wonderful. The smell. The noise. Following the home teams fortune and shouting at them. Hot dogs and improving Swedish (??) "Dubbel korv med brod snalla". Another hot dog on its way with lashings of mustard. Laying on the hill side in a gang watching the heats until 9 ish was a great way to spend a weekday evening. These guys have to work tomorrow, so as soon as it's over and Elit Vetlanda have their victory we are saddling up and heading out through the snarl up. Filtering comes naturally if you ride in the English Midlands. Soon enough still in day light, we are heading north for home, fast. The gaint double Swedish timber trucks slow the light traffic, and overtaking is into the setting sun. Thing is, if you are used to English overtaking, and can see 1.5 k of clear road as the monster truck the only vehicle blots out the sun with it's massive, slow bulk. Hell you can shut your eyes, gun it, and go!

The riders peel off one by one as we get into the suburbs of Jonkoping. Big Janne and Eva barrel on alone as I am the last to turn off onto the 26. Sugary Sex as Jane calls the road leading to the 195 and home. It makes me smile to hear the satnav losing her English again. Did you think Sugary Sex was anything else? Shame on you! Back at the cabin at 11 PM and it is not fully dark yet. I love this latitude. Summer in the north is magical. I cannot imagine not being in the north at midsummer. It calls to my soul so strongly.

A Day on The Beach and Sugary Sex

2011-06-28T14:35:00.000-07:00

25C today and clear blue skies. I have a day on the beach for sure, just as soon as I have attended to a very important and unavoidable task.

Last night we fixed the end of my tenancy of the cottage. This morning it struck me that the agreed date is a weekend. I checked. Yep, it is. That is a problem for ferry bookings. It's summer and weekend sailings are popular. I rapidly had no choice but to grab a good deal staring me in the face. The nearest week day crossing on a Tuesday. So my departure is set. The thing that stops that being sad is that it is seven weeks away! This was followed by the utilitarian task of a quick trip into Habo to get some grub, and a look into the library and information office. You know? just parking up and walking around the shops I get company. A young boy was blown away by Elsa. His Mum was very nice, so conversation ensued. People say hello and talk. It's really nice. This done and food stashed away at the cottage, I can kick back and relax.

There is a lake shore beach just 5.5 miles from fagerhult. The highway is quiet, almost no traffic, so I break a rule. I ride over to the beach in my shorts. Something I never do these days. The smell of coconut oil, the sound of sqealing children, an icecream kiosk, a marina to mouch around. Summer !! No need for a good book. I have scenery to look at that is special and rare to my Midland English eyes. Vatta is forming poetic back ground noise. Maroon, Ocre washed farmsteads, clouds sailing by overhead. If he doesn't start forming it all into coherent poetry soon, I'll go nuts, and maybe have to do it myself. Warning:

There was a young man from Bankeryd
Who liked to stay home a lot
.........................................
........................................
..........................................

Get the picture Vatta? Pick up you pen and start writing or I'll Limerick you to death!

Senapsill for lunch (herrings in mustard) while Huskie (lawn mower robot) comes to say nothing to Elsa. He cuts the grass up to her front wheel, shuffles around and trundles away again. He'll do it again later. The house has a dog who is old and deaf. If you clap your hands really loud he comes, but won't go away again.

Bike riding later, and Sugary sex. Sorry it's too tempting to keep you waiting.

That sorted I set off for

Once Around the Lake, and Home for Tea

2011-06-28T14:20:00.000-07:00

The sun came out and my feet started to itch. Time to ride the bike. Temperatures reached 22C or so I think, and almost a clear blue sky, for most of the day anyway. I'm writing this with a small Jagermeister at my elbow. Just the one. The windows are open to let a breeze in. No chance. It is utterly calm.

Lake Vattern is a big lake. Circumnavigating it for a day seemed a good idea. I set off south to Jonkoping and got the city section at the head of the lake out of the way. Then Jane and I argued as she tried repeatedly to get me onto the highway. Elsa and I were having none of it and pootled alonge the lake shore road to just north of Granna. It's a tourist destination with a ferry across to the large island in the middle of the lake. For the morning we explored every nook and cranny ignoring Janes "turn around when possible", and a slightly truculant "Recalculating!". The lake is 190 miles around. Something I didn't know before setting out. Jane could have told me, but I didn't ask. For the most part it is stunningly beautiful and unspoilt. Very clean and with great little cafe's ad lakeside restaurants. The day passed more quickly than the miles, and what was an AM dawdle, became a PM push to eat miles in time for tea. Getting tired and hot with Motala under my belt, including waiting at the barriers while four sailing boats (yaghts. I almost forgot) floated through on their way to Gothenburg I imagine. Down the west shore and through Karlsborg, which is picturesque, and on finally to revisit Hjo again. This time for petrol and a carton of milk. Life in the fast lane.

Back to base, feet up, pot on. Nice cup of tea to finish the day. Apart from meeting Ernst and Lars to agree my departure day. Mmm. Maybe something I said. I am optomistic because Swedish friends have not yet organised my leaving party :-)

If this sounds like a slow news day. It is, and I'm very pleased with that. It is just what the doctor ordered. More sunshine tomorrow please.

Mid Summer 2011

2011-06-26T00:20:00.000-07:00

We celebrate nature. The sun at it's highest. In the north it is important. Religions coming out of the middle east wouldn't have understood that. Our winters are long, and our summers short. Like bees we are busy when the sun shines. The winters were dangerous for our ancestors. At Yule they at last knew the sun would begin its journey back another year. In the winter, candles to banish the dark. Stories to tell around the fire. Mid summer should be dancing and laughter.

The weather is the weather and it was changable as it has been for weeks all across northern Europe. Sunshine and showers. At the criticle moment to set up at Domsand it rained. No blue sky to be seen, so we set up under canvas. The warmth of the people and their company makes up for the poor weather easily. Actually here is a thought. There is no bad weather, just the wrong clothes! The rain is also good for the crops.

I put a bottle of scotch on the table that didn't taste great with the herring. It got drank anyway. Schnapps is best though. There was dancing. Mainly the girls, but especially after a few drinks I cannot resist. Doing the frog dance around the phalus of leaves always makes me laugh.

The hangover was impressive, so why the hell did I only score LOW on the alcohol meter? If this is what it feels like to be sober it is over rated. Another thought. Most traffic accidents are caused by sober people. Scary!

As I recover from our celebration, in a tiny village in central England with it's little medieval church, friends are preparing for the annual pig roast. No mention of mid summer. Maybe it's too far south, but the principle is the same. Celebrate the light.

Effulgent Fagerhult

2011-06-23T12:55:00.000-07:00

Pardon the spelling please.

There is a huge factory on the other side of the highway. It produces light fittings. That I knew. It is also called Fagerhult. If I have understood correctly it is also a leading producer of solar panels internationally. Sweden bringing light to the world.

Two days of rest sleeping eleven hours a day. Gentle strolls in the forest. The lake is some way off at this point on the shore line. I walked 45 minutes and didn't get there. I'll do it another day with a packed lunch and a flask of hot tea.

Nothing biker to report. After 11 hundred miles Elsa and I are having some time off. What I have actually been doing is sorting myself out. Getting settled into this great little cabin, and putzing about. It included hanging out with Ernst who has the whole week off. We actually laid some new flooring in the showers at VMCK camping. Janne's idea. Not ours. Life is about the little things just now. You know? I might just get some writing done this trip.

Midsummer party tomorrow. I'd better get some more sleep.

Fagerhult

2011-06-22T10:05:00.000-07:00

Fagerhult. A beautiful clearing in a forest, and that is what it is. I get ahead of myself though. The last fifty kilometers north to Jonkoping on the old road, I really dropped into the groove. The right hand side of the road is fine. It doesn't change my hamdling, and today it is very much on! At last, even fully laden Elsa and I are in tune. I feel the impatience to arrive, and imagine she does as well.

I am meeting Ernst at the club house at Domsand, for him to lead me in to my accommodation for the summer, and of course to meet the owner, Lars. Being on the lane leading to the club house feels wonderful. I waltz Elsa a few times, making sweeping S's amongst last years pine cones. I didn't whoop. That would have been very un English. I thought about it though.

The little cottage (cabin) is warm and cosy. It is tastefully decorated and well equiped. Small but perfectly formed. It is the perfect retreat here with beautuful views of Lake Vattern. As soon as I had looked around the place, I know how it is to be. I will be OK here. I am in the right place for a while. Ernst and Lars leave me to unload Elsa and unpack. Lars couldn't be more helpful, offering his garage for the bike. Another day when I am confident of not dropping her on the igledy pigldey steeply sloping cinder drive maybe.

It won't be long before I sleep, but first I have a meeting that I have been aware of for some hours now. I have had wonderful company for days now, and I am feeling good. I have laughed at times and been genuinely happy. I knew my grief would be waiting for me in this place, and so it is. It's OK. I'm ready. Never hate your grief. It is proof that we love.

Tomorrow is another day. Face the sun and drink deeply of life.

Taking the Slow Road

2011-06-22T09:36:00.000-07:00

The pack set off in the rain, heading for the first ferry across to Denmark. Five of us linger. It is a hard days ride from here to Jonkoping. Osten and I are just not up for the slog. Three others have places to see and a reluctance to end this delightful trip. We ride the coast north of Kiel in the rain, stopping to admire a German U Boat. It gets quite windy in the afternoon as we cross onto the island of Fehmarn. It's a German Baltic resort on a cold, wet and windy afternoon. Five bikes in quiet procession, riding into the headwind. What do you do? Ich Mochter ein Grossen Beir von Fasse bitte!!! Pardon my German spelling. It is actually worse than my English. Despite uninspiring weather and a modern resort Ernst found one of the best dinners I've had this year. "Jungschwiencottlet". Two full plates of young pork to get my teeth into. I really like eating here!

Earnst leaves us At Rodby after the German booze shopping expedition. The duty free shop is a very large "Ship", anchored waiting for thirsty Scandinavians (and Brit who can find room for a couple of bottles more). Four of Us go on the a youth hostel in the Copenhagen area, and a trully memorabe evening in an amusement park. The roller coaster was something I would have swarn I wouldn't do. Birtel, Christian and I climbed on board and the train started it's trundle up to the highest point, ready to plunge down into the bowels of this very rickety looking old wooden fairground ride. In our minds we yelled in a manley way enhancing the fun of the ride. In truth we squealed like girls apparently. The photo presented to us supports the view that what we experienced was sheer terror!

The ride back up Sweden to jonkoping was very nice indeed. Thanks to Birtel for a trully great alternative route. By the end I was ready to arrive. I have been on my way back to Jonkoping for a year in a way. I could feel the anticipation building like a physical thing in my chest.

The Anglo Saxons

2011-06-22T09:11:00.000-07:00

There is a ruddy great larder fridge in the corridor stacked full of excellent local beer that Carsten does not allow to run low. The dinner table groans under the weight of meat. Our wonderful host believes vegetables are for feeding to the live stock, which we eat later.

To top this hospitality Carsten jumps onto his motorbike and treats our huge biker party to a guided tour of the Anglo Saxon home land. I think I counted 25 bikes of all shapes and sizes, rumbling through junctions, stopping traffic which for the most part seemed to enjoy the free show. Friendly waves and smiling faces from children. This small area at the base of the Jutland penisula was home to the emigrating tribes who displaced the native British from what is now England. Jutes, Angles, Saxons, Friese, leaving a land miserable with starvation in the fifth century. A blood test would show that I am around 60% Welsh. Today I am a returning Saxon, open mouthed at the similarity of this place to my native England. The ride out must have included the town of Tonning because we stopped to admire the Eider Barrage, very similar the the one on the Thames. Rendsburg must also have featured for I think that is where we saw the suspended cable ferry. The thing is, today I am a follower. Just one of a crowd, and delighted to be.

Wings, Pans, Flat 6's, Three beemers, a Blackbird, Vstroms, Yamahas one from the seventies with a chair on it, Suzzies. We make me smile guys. It's not what you ride, or how you ride it. What is important is that we ride, and it makes us smile a lot.

The following day, Saturday was pretty much a wash out, but such is life. There are plenty of sausages and beer to be had, so we do that instead. We are using the accomodation dorm style. Rooms full of bikers. Ear plugs are more essential during the night than on the bikes.

Carsten. Thank you for being a fine host. What you do has inspired me. I'll let you know how it goes. Janne & Ernst. Thank you for organising a great holiday and including me.

A magic Moment? Eating a crusty shrimp sandwich, the wind in my face as I look out over the North Sea. I can imagine the Viking Longboats setting sale loaded with the flatpack furniture!

Mons Klint

2011-06-18T01:25:00.000-07:00

My one day stay on this tiny island worked very well indeed. Thanks to Henrik and Anna for the suggestion. Blue skies and white cliffs. Dinner was out of tns at the hostel, but having a table on the lawn overlooking the lake was very nice indeed.

Thursday morning on the road in the drizzle, riding for the Rodby ferry. 2:30 saw me sneaking into the garden at B&B Dannewirke to slide into a seat next to Janne and the others. Warm reunions with all too many to mention all by name just here. A beer in hand and the afternoon and evening are set. So much catching up to do.

Ferry To Rodby

2011-06-15T00:57:00.000-07:00

Today I take the short ride to Mons Klint. Hostel accommodation is confirmed so hopefully this evening I will explore the white cliffs with the camera.

Tomorrows routs is via the ferry to Rodby. It is the ferry I used last year on my return leg across Germany. Meeting up with he bikers from Sweden, the experience has no choice but to be very different to last year. Pictures soon.

Cab Inn

2011-06-14T06:01:00.001-07:00

The concept is interesting with this budget chain of hotels. The rooms are tiny. They are ferry cabins reconstructed. They are exactly ferry cabins, and work wonderfully. My cabin is indeed tiny, but it works really well, and at about half the price of a tourist hotel, I am happy.

I did fork out for secure parking though. As I rode up on Sunday evening a couple were sorting through the mess of having their car broken into and robbed. It is rare apparently but I simply cannot afford to take the chance with Elsa this early in the trip. It costs a packet in the centre of Copenhagen, but hey ho.

Via Bob I am booked into the Danhostel at Mons Klint for Wednesday. Mon is a small island of shore south east of Copenhagen. It is supposed to be very beautiful. It will leave me with a mighty schlepp back across Denmark and down into Germany to join up with the guys of VMCK, but I'm up for it, no problem. I can smell the meat roasting on the barbecue on Thursday night already.

The Mermaid and the Netto Boat

2011-06-14T05:51:00.000-07:00

Elsa and Satnav Jane have two days off to sleep. I worry that Elsa is not right after her major repair. It is probably just my nervousness, but I'll keep an eye on the old war horse. Bob is plugged into the net and doing his jobs. Accommodation, communication, navigation and planning, playing music to relax to, and the magic of Skype letting me see the faces of friends. I am never alone thanks to this wonderful little Droid. Vatta dips in and out. Sometimes here, but often not.

A long morning walk to explore the parks and city, and a chance stumbling onto Nyhavn where the canal tourboats go from. I can hear Andreas' telling me about hese boats over a pizza. "Use the Netto one it is much cheaper and does exactly the same". Mearsk (can't remember the spelling) is the biggest shipping company in the world, and it's HQ building of a thousand blue eyes dominates. A mysterious black yaght, huge against the key, has been there a long time. It is rumoured to belong to a Russian oligarc.

I have the landmarks of the city down now, and a long walk back to the hotel is easy in the cloudy sunshine. I might get wet today. Don't care.

House boats on the canal look fun. I wonder if I can get one onto the Blythe?

Elephant Parade

2011-06-14T05:39:00.000-07:00

They look very familiar although I have never seen them before. Plastic sculptures on the streets. Each elephant identical in form, but acting as a canvas for a unique picture. It reminds me of Cow Parade in Zurich many years ago, and well it should. It is the same and makes me smile. New but familiar, just like Copenhagen. It is a city you can fall in love with. If I had business her I would stay, content for a long time. Some places are like this. Zurich is the same. Note to self: Deffinately visit Stockholm this trip.

The morning I spent time with the reunion with Andreas. Lots of smiles. His company is easy. His Greek colleague Lina (Leena?) was utterly charming and mentioned Transition Towns. A concept I must look into. More of that later I bet. Lina had to stop work at 1 pm and I had a city to see. That she should guide me on the start of my tour was perfect. Thank you very much fair lady.

Christianhavn in the afternoon and time to watch the world go by. Back to my hotel for a quick rest and back to the bike hire place to hook up with Andreas for dinner. Catching up a whole year in an evening over a beer or two. An extra beer from the young guys who could drink no more.

My mood is much improved. Being on the road, new challenges and reunions is better than any medicine.

Land of the Ravens

2011-06-12T11:53:00.000-07:00

Sunshine and showers across Jutland, but I don't care. Elsa's electric wind shield keeps it off me. Satnav Jane is trying out her Danelish on road names. She is funny without knowing it. Saturday late afternoon and a wonderful warm welcome from Henrik, Anna and family. Your house and hospitality are very warm indeed. Thank you for preparing me so nicely for my onward journey. Beach woods behind the house, and an evening strole around their own little piece of woodland. I am SO jealous guys!

Sunday morning passed easy in the company of these new friends. Then onto the Beemer and dawdling away towards Copenhagen. I won't pass by without saying hello. Promise. Callanish one year maybe? Do the stones and the whole new age pagan experience. I have a good English biker companion who would be up for it also I think, if he is not fighting fires. The sun is shining and it's a great afternoon to ride.

5.45 PM into the quiet centre of Copenhagen. Perfect. I have already extended my stay here following instructions from Sue!! I also have a map with Andreas' cycle shop loction, so I'm sorted for another reunion in the morning. Tuesday is for sightseeing. Time to get some shut eye, eventuelt.

The North Sea

2011-06-12T11:43:00.000-07:00

Lunch with Paul. Thanks for the sausage sandwiches mate. You read my mind. See you on the way home maybe.

No sooner into the boarding queue at Harwich than three Swedish trucker bikers spotted my Abisco sticker. A thoroughly good one day cruise was assured at that point. Anders, Per, and Andreas were returning to Gothenburg from a one week blast around Scotland. There was also a large BMW group off to tour the Norwegian fjords. I got an informal invite to join up. Wonderful, but I'm very happy with the plans I have, even if the Yorkshire lass riding the Aprilla was very nice indeed, as well as funny. Thanks for making me smile a lot. I settled down to a few beers with the Swedish guys, talked about trucking, bikes, and life in Sweden. There is a reasonable chance we will meet up again over the summer. A rally. A visit by them to Bankeryd, or me to Gothenburg. It's good when it works like this.

Yikes. My spell checker changed to Danish!

Heading Out

2011-06-10T01:58:00.000-07:00

Elsa stands ready under the Oak tree. My new droid Bob slumbers in the luggage for a couple of days. (Origins of Bob are explained in my goofy blog "Bombay Mix". Go to Nordkapp blog, click on "view my complete profile", and there it is). Vatta is a silent passenger also no surprise. He will rouse later I am sure. Satnav Jane has her destinations for today and tomorrow. Harwich today via Paul and Becky for lunch in Cambridgeshire. I'm actually feeling under the weather. Something I ate or just the jitters hitting my stomach. Who knows. I'll take it easy to the boat and get some rest before Denmark tomorrow lunchtime.

Tomorrow I have a short ride north to Henrik and his family. I'm looking forward to face to face instead of our excellent email conversations. Sunday I ride over to Copenhagen for a few days. I'm currently scheduled to leave the capital on Tuesday, having got together with Andreas on Monday. I'm already thinking I may stay an extra day for sightseeing.

Thursday 16th I meet up with the VMCK riders in North Germany for a club road trip for a few days. I'm looking forward to seeing familiar faces very much indeed. It doesn't seem a year since we rode together. But here at home our last few months seem to have been a very long time indeed. Such is the human condition.

No posts until Sunday evening at my hotel in Copenhagen. See you then.

Ready to Ride

2011-06-09T12:15:00.000-07:00

The bike is loaded and backed into the garage ready for lift off. The droids are all charged and functioning. I even found space for my favourite three berth tent for the MC rallies. I may have a fiddle around again in the morning to see if I can get a decent airbed and electric pump on board. The big bike is very forgiving.

Elsa has a new front tyre which is not scrubbed in, so no acrobatics before Huntingdon. She also has new front break pads. Stopping is good. All systems tested. Ready to roll.

I'm torn. I am keen to be moving, and enthusiastic about seeing friends again. I smile just thinking of the reunions. But I'm also leaving with a heavy heart. Mums house is on the market. Our family home where my little sister and I were both born. A happy garden filled with kids every summer. My sister is sad and I hate to leave her. So sorry sis. I really do have to go.

I'll ride out of the village, and there is a vague chance that my journey will take me as far as the Russian border this time. I don't need to decide yet. If it is meant to be it will happen.

Going to Nordkapp?

2011-06-08T09:38:00.000-07:00

I am learning more of how on line publishing works these days. I want to write. It should be no surprise that the majority of people finding this blog have never met me. 3300 of you so far. It is a surprise though. I was born before Yuri Gagarin went into space. I was a very small boy when President Kennedy was shot, and I remember my mother crying at the kitchen sink. I am a migrant to the 21st century, where the youngsters are natives. So this post is for all of those people who have stumbled upon my blog this season. If you were looking for information on motorcycling to Nordkapp and ended up here you could well be confused, having found the ramblings of a slightly crazy Englishman. Let me help you out.

I rode to Nordkapp in June/July 2010, safely and alone. Check out my earliest posts. Read from oldest through to August 2010. Read, learn the lessons from my mistakes and go. GO, and have a wonderful time. Don't let the fact that most of the North Sea ferries are cancelled because of the financial mess we are all experiencing put you off. It is a wonderful journey. A genuine adventure. I travelled alone, but in truth had company half of the time, especially at the very moment I arrived at the cape. Two riders coming out of the mist to join me. Hospitality along the way that you would not believe. DO IT. GO.

My story is real though, and unlike fiction the story goes on after the adventure, and that is what this blog has become going forward another season. Fetching the groceries. Cleaning the house. Wondering what the hell I am doing now. Life goes on. What I am writing now may end up being interesting in its own right. It is about what happens to a guy when going to Nordkapp changed his life. Here is a thought. Every friend you ever had was at first a stranger. Be nice to strangers. Some of them are friends you haven't met yet. After a lousy winter, I could do no other but to set off again. In two days I will throw my leg over my BMW R1200RT and head on back to Scandinavia. I have ice in my veins now from the north.

If you should meet the Norwegian Police along the way, make sure that it is not under circumstances where they are writing you a speeding ticket. You really don't want to go there. If you do go to Nordkapp, drop me a comment. Let me know you did it and how you got on. Ride safely and keep both wheels on the black stuff.

I imagine sitting around camp fires with Viking friends, but the truth is almost certainly hot dogs and strong coffee at service stations, all bitching about our poor old knees.

Two Blogs

2011-06-05T08:12:00.000-07:00

If you haven't already found it, I have another blog called Bambay mix. Both blogs are now active at the same time. Nordkapp is about what I do this summer in Scandinavia. Bombay mix is more about what I am thinking and feeling. It is a collection of unrelated ideas. Dip in. Comment and I'll share. To get to Bombay Mix click on "view my complete profile" then select Bombay Mix.

Vatta

2011-06-04T06:43:00.000-07:00

Vatta is my alter ego. Last year I wrote about my virtual team. Satnav Jane, Elsa the big red BMW motorcycle, Vatta and I. Vatta is sweet, thoughtful, dreamy, magical, and completely crazy. When he is piloting Elsa they make poetry together. Vatta loves Elsa, and I think it is he who found the ghost in the machine. Vatta isn't sensible or serious, ever. He causes most of the problems that I am the author of, and he usually solves them as well, but in his own weird way. If I don't have work to do, or a book to read, I write this stuff. We play sometimes.

Six days to go. Vatta is quiet. I leave him alone with his sadness, hoping he will snap out of it soon. If not he will travel with us as a passenger in the hope that he will heal along the way. Satnav Jane and Elsa are ready. Elsa just needs a new front boot, to be fitted on Tuesday. I am almost there myself. Tired but OK.

I caught Vatta weaving something furtively this morning. It was a reality patch. He used one last year to make the helicopter ride which replaced the Norwegian speeding fine on the approach to Nordkapp. It's his magic. Worryingly when he realised I was paying attention he slipped it into a small biscuit tin and closed the lid. Not before I saw that his tin was full of them. He has been very busy indeed.

I should be writing this on my new HP Mini, but keep lapsing into old habits. This gas driven desk top is old and familiar. The Mini still feels awkward, but I'll get to know it.

Be in the Here and Now

2011-05-28T09:03:00.000-07:00

What can you do in two seconds? Press send and launch an email? Smile? Remember the face of friend?

It's been a hard week clearing Mum's house with my sister and brother in law. It breaks your heart and screws your head. As night follows day.....

.....Just two seconds, is all it takes to lose the line on a corner at speed. No one else involved, and with counter steering and desperation, I stayed on. I know what was going on in me head. Grief! I have had my warning. That was a week ago and all is well now, although I was seriously concerned about my imminent departure for a while. My mood is stronger now so I got the vital preparations done. Organise the eleven day road trip which ends at my cabin. Let the rest of the summer wait. I want a rest for a little while. Time to walk along a lake shore, eat ice cream and watch the world go by. Just for a little while.

What broke my poor mood was the decision to take a break for a day. I left the bike in the garage and drove over to North Wales to walk the Llangollen canal. I trekked miles including crossing the Llangollen Viaduct 125 feet in the air. Fresh air was rammed rudely into my lungs in what the locals call "a bit of a breeze". The sun shone, and fellow walkers stopped to chat. It was more than enough to chase the blues away.

I test loaded the bike. It's the only way I have ever found to work out exactly what I can take. The surprise was that it is less than the Arctic trip last year. Not so much equipment, and no winter clothes. This is a relief. I even have room for my tiny tent for the occasional motorcycle rally that seems inevitable (what is this OCCASIONAL rally stuff??). Let's not under sell this. The whole rig still weighs at least 1/3 of a ton. I am not at my physical peak by a long shot, but this weight will toughen me up over the eleven day road trip. It did last year. By the time I reach Bankeryd I will be strong and fit. Nature dictates.

The thought of midsummer makes me smile. I love the long Scandinavian summer nights, and the Swedish know how to celebrate. If the sun shines I can see trestle tables loaded with salad and raw herring, bottles of schnapps and one of Scotch Whisky.

One week to go.

Note to self: Keep both wheels on the black stuff at all times.

APX

2011-05-20T14:49:00.000-07:00

Here at home there is a young rock band starting out who are very cool indeed. APX write and perform their own music. They also make their own video's. Miles has asked for video footage and story from our summer on two wheels. I'll do my part mate. Write what we do. Tell the story. Take stills to the best of my ability. Keep both wheels on the black stuff. Hide my reading glasses at all times when anyone engages us in conversation !! Not own up to using heated handle bar grips!

Whilst riding through rain, sleet and muck
There was a biker who envied a duck
A guy in a car
smirked "I bet you've come far"
The biker said......................................

I could have written a poem about Whale song, but it's Friday night and getting late.

I'm holding a Limerick competition. Anything you like, but it has to be a Limerick. You can stick them in the comments field. Every one is a winner because they will all be published this way.

The Return of the Cape Crusader

2011-05-19T09:38:00.000-07:00

It is happening again. I'm raising money for Myton Hospice. Today I delivered a talk and slide show about last years journey, to the ladies of the Women's Institute. Jam and Jerusalem, and home baked cakes. Maybe it is the mood I'm in, but their rendition of Jerusalem was wonderful. I wish Mum was standing in their ranks belting it out still. I think I better stop there. Next I'll be thinking knitting is cool!

We raised another £125 for Myton. I added an epilogue to my talk mentioning Mum, who was one of their number, and my inevitable return to an region that I have fallen in love with. How long after the 2010 trip will people want me to do presentations on it? Is there anything new to add? I gave my contact details to fresh organisations interested in hiring me.

3 weeks to go. I am making progress. I will be ready, but it's rushing forward to meet me too fast.

An Organic Plan

2011-05-13T10:58:00.000-07:00

I don't have a grand plan this year. What I have is elements that have come naturally together as a result of my journey to Nordkapp last year. I also don't have long. I am leaving in four weeks. Much to do.

Ernst found a cottage (cabin) for me near Lake Vattern in Sweden. I'm returning to join many friends of VMCK, the motorcycle club that supported my fundraising for Myton Hospice last year. So I have a base for two months, quiet roads and wonderful scenery to ride my bike in, and friends to do it with. What more can a biker want? Apart from another bike in the shed, and free beer, forever. Thanks Ernst for providing the platform on which my trip will be built.

I also have my outward ferry booked, Harwich - Esbjerg. Elsa is ready to go which is more than can be said for me. The outward journey to the VMCK club house is taking shape. I'm not exactly taking the direct route to get there. It's going to take me ten days. I have friends to visit in Jutland, and also a rendezvous with Andreas, the German cyclist I met up with in Gavle last year. He was circumnavigating the Baltic and our paths crossed at a point where we both needed rest. His journey was far harder than my Arctic adventure actually. After that I will meet up with the guys of VMCK in Northern Germany, from where we make a road trip of five days ending up at the club house Near Bankeryd, Home! We will be there in time for mid summer which is the whole point. What else I do with the summer in Scandinavia will sort itself out later. I expect it to include getting together with Aki who I was at the Cape with (Catch you later Sami. Have a great summer with your family).

That looks like a plan and time is short. I need to get my arse into gear. Domestic logistics to support a ten week absence to arrange. New technology to learn. Soon enough I will have to team up with Satnav Jane, release Vatta from his padded cell, and reassemble my virtual team.

The Long Goodbye

2011-05-03T12:30:00.000-07:00

I thought that my story was pretty much done, but I was wrong. Maybe what I am about to do is a sequel. It definitely involves another, related journey, and of course lots of motorbikes. But first the reason this starts again.

Last year I rode to Nordkapp to raise money for Myton Hospice, where my father spent the last few weeks of his life. Whatever plans I had for the winter, and this year were overtaken by events. During last years trip my mother followed my progress and enthusiastically did her bit to raise sponsorship towards the cause. That we should lose her in exactly the same way seems unbelievably cruel, but that is what has happened to us. Our whole family mourn the loss of her hugely. As I begin my new journey, I will miss her telling me that I am a wimp for using heated handle bar grips. Best was to use them and not tell her.

I made her a promise that I would move forward, and I will. I intend to make every day count. I have much to do. I'd better get started.

Bombay Mix

2010-08-21T08:09:00.000-07:00

If my plans for the winter come to fruition I will be creating a new blog towards the end of the year. I have itchy feet and I can feel Goa and a Royal Enfield calling me. Watch out for "Bombay Mix". Other than a base in Goa, and an Enfield, I have no idea what will happen. As ever, the road will write the story.

Elsa

2010-08-19T04:39:00.000-07:00

I'm due to pick her up from the dealer this afternoon. The clutch was totally shot at. I have had the bike from new April 2006. No one else has ridden her. The mileage is 25000. The repair bill over £1030. I am upset (huge understatement). The bike is out of warranty which would not cover a clutch anyway.

The dealer asked for a contribution towards costs from BMW. BMW declined. My riding style is blamed. In all of my years of motorcycling I have never burnt a clutch out. My riding style now is calmer and more gentle with my machine than ever before. I am a 53 year old tourer.

Apart from the horrendous repair bill, the dilemma I face is this. I believe that the bike arrived with a bad clutch. That is actually the best scenario, because if that is the case I can hope that the new one will last more than the joke 25000 I have had from this one. I am an international tourer likely to do large mileages going forward. I cannot support a machine no matter how gorgeous and well loved, if I face a £1000 repair bill every three years. The worst case is that the RT eats clutches and therefore despite its fantastic ergonomic design and great handling, is not fit for purpose.

It is with a very heavy heart, and in a grumpy mood that I go to fetch her.

I will ride out again next year. In the mean time I have some serious thinking to do. BMW dealers are also thin on the ground in Sweden.

Recovery

2010-08-12T09:36:00.001-07:00

I've been home two weeks now. It passes so quickly. Last Friday my bike was recovered to the BMW dealership to assess the clutch. It needs replacing. What a sad day for a fantastic motorcycle. I got seriously saddle sore with this journey, but I miss Elsa hugely. I am waiting to find out whether BMW will make a good will gesture. I didn't extend the two year warranty, but there is a known manufacturing fault on this new Boxer. I await their decision before writing further on the subject.

Personally I have slept and eaten a lot. My body weight is back up to where it should be, and my sleeping patterns and energy levels are back to normal. I have tight tendons in my legs so I guess I'm due to put effort into walks to get my flexibility back. It was a hell of a long time in the saddle !

Contact with friends from the trip, and those of you who have followed me, continues to delight. Thank you.

The Long Road Home

2010-08-03T00:18:00.000-07:00

A bad incident on the return journey has caused me problems for several days. I have recovered now and it doesn't seem right not to describe my final homeward journey. Bikers and drivers may want the information it provides.

A reminder of my outward route for comparison. Harwich - Esbjerg, west to east across central Denmark, crossing into Sweden at Malmo via the tunnel and bridge.

I left Domsand with a slippy clutch at 09:00 last Tuesday. As long as I didn't try to turn on too much power it was OK. Long slow overtakes only. My route took me south to the ferry Helsingborg - Helsinger, then due south to the ferry to Germany at Rodby. I broke my journey after 300 miles.

At 05:00 I was back on the road having had no sleep. I knew that tiredness would end my day early. I had 400 miles to the ferry, and probably couldn't make it. Most likely I was going to miss the ferry. I knocked off 100 miles fast, before an early breakfast with lots of black coffee. I ran on Adrenalin until that point. I washed and shaved at a truck stop then eased back into the North German motorway system. It is every bit as crowded and aggressive as the south of England. Torrential rain at 09:00 forced me off the road for 45 minutes during which genuine tiredness began to seep in. I reasoned that since there was no wind, the down poor wasn't slowing, and my understanding of the days weather was isolated showers, I should get into it and try to ride through it and out the other side. I got drowned for an hour, but I was right. I stopped for a brew at 11:00. Warm sunshine lifted the water off my outer suit as steam. I hadn't seen a service station in 40 miles and I needed caffeine. The solution was to boil up strong tea in a rest area, much to the delight of some other travellers, I was definitely being English. Another hour and lunch over the border into the Netherlands. Their motorways are as bad as the Germans and English. Northern Europe is getting very crowded.

Beyond lunch it got really hard. Another 50 miles and my eyes were closing. A stop for water and to walk around. Another 20 miles and I nodded off on the bike. I swooped, limped into a rest area where the Dutch truck driver watched over me. I slept in my leathers, flat on my back, on a grass verge near his truck. I was definitely on the edge at this point. I washed to wake myself up and finished the last 40 miles to the port. I missed a turning. GPS Jane is mute, and I couldn't make sense of her attempted corrections. A novel solution. I followed the signposts to the ferry !!

Fish and chips at the terminal were good, and only spoiled by a truly crazy Englishman who sat down at my little table on the pavement, and leaned into my face to enthusiastically reminisce about England. I told him I was very tired and in poor humour, and asked to be left with my fish and chips. He "skedaddled".

Lessons learnt. Ferries sap your energy and eat time. Even if there is a slight financial saving, a good bridge gets you on your way faster and fresher. The route home through Germany is a slog. The Danish route through Esbjerg is nice. For the sake of £50 I'll use the Esbjerg route when I return to Sweden. I need to find out if IKEA sell Senapsill!! I have acquired a taste for raw herrings apparently.

If you feel the need to do Nordkapp, do it! Watch your speed in Norway and be prepared for ridiculously low speeds for very long journeys. Take warm clothing, sun block and mosquito repellent. Would I go back? I've already been, so no, probably not. It was awesome though.

I have a couple of speaking engagements so will hopefully take funds raised for Myton over the £1000 eventually.

The Pictures are Published

2010-08-01T03:50:00.000-07:00

HI all

Sorry if my achievement is a little rough and ready. The whole blog is now illustrated with the appropriate (or inappropriate) pictures added. You have to back through the whole blog therefore to see them. At least this way you have text alongside to help explain what they all are.

I had an idea and I'd like to hear from any geeks amongst you (in the nicest possible way). How do you set up a chat site? A forum to discuss and pursue ideas, conversation threads. I've seen it done with club web sites. The idea I had comes from realising just how many people from different countries are reading this. I want a forum where we can compare our different ideas and experiences. Wouldn't it be great if we could pick out the best ideas from several cultures? The ideas and observations of ordinary, real people. Fun and humour, politics, music, the weather, anything. Is this interesting?

I'm going to keep this blog going for a little while. I have an article to write for Myton, and at least two talks to deliver, also to raise money for Myton. I thought I'd charge a fee for the "regular" version, and a higher rate for the saucy version with the bad bits left in :-0

End of a Journey

2010-07-30T09:36:00.000-07:00

The ferry was good, and so was the company over a beer. A hot shower and bed for six hours. Off the ferry early on Thursday morning and the breakfast appointment with Paul and Becky. Pip. Have a great camping holiday with your mates. Be good!

My Mums face when I turned up earlier than expected, on her doorstep, was wonderful. Then slowly through the lanes of North Warwickshire. My road is peaceful and quiet, and it was good to see friends and neighbours after so long away. I slept the afternoon yesterday, and again today. So tired. Special thanks to Alan for lending an ear at 10 o clock at night, when I needed one.

The end of a journey? No. Apparently it is the beginning of a much bigger one. I have a book to write once I have figured out publishing and monetising the undertaking.

Pictures over the next few days. I promise.

Touch and Go

2010-07-26T10:40:00.000-07:00

This trip has one more challenge for me. The clutch on the bike is on the way out. This morning I was up and down the local highway assessing the state of it. My honest opinion is that it will probably get me home. My route takes me through Hamburg, and there is a lack of dealers in Sweden. The conclusion is therefore that I should start the journey tomorrow as planned. If the clutch gets worse I may have to break my journey for a couple of days in Germany. We shall see. Worse things happen at sea.

Domsand

2010-07-24T09:17:00.000-07:00

I came back from the rally on Gotland exhausted. I've lost weight witch I couldn't afford to do. So I booked the cabin for a weeks holiday to recuperate. Eating, sleeping, spending time with friends who are also on holiday.

The first few days were hot and sunny. Time spent around the harbour, the rigging creaking and chinking in the gentle breeze. Ice cream on the beach. A proper holiday. Lunch with friends. Good news on Östen. He is out of hospital after having a stent done. The guy must be as strong as an ox because he took me to visit the church in Habo this afternoon. Thanks to Ida for the guided tour. The inside of the church is painted with pictures all over. Not a square inch is left undecorated. I have never seen anything quite like it. Hello in cyberspace Ida. Welcome.

Eating, sleeping, and not drinking too much beer. On Tuesday I begin the long journey home. I will never be ready to leave this place and these people, so I might as well begin. Down to Malmo. Through Denmark. Ferry to Germany, then the long road west to the Netherlands, and Hoek van Hollens. Then a boat back across the North Sea to Harwich, and a full cooked English breakfast in Cambridgeshire. I am honestly looking forward to seeing friends and family, and especially Mum.

Dinner with friends on Sunday and a great stop over, escaping from torrential rain. Finally my last few hours in Domsand and an off the cuff invite to go sailing on Lake VÄttern. rare glimpses of sunshine and the peace of 2 knotts for an hour or two. leavetakings. Tomorrow I really must leave for home.

See you all soon.

Pictures from Domsand. I love this place. Also check out www.vmck.org/

Bikers for Myton

2010-07-20T10:55:00.000-07:00

I want to tell you about the wonderful thing the club here at Domsand have done. The money I owe in rent for the cabin is to go to Myton Hospice. I am totally blown away. Thank you all for what you have done.

Since they refuse payment, and I donate directly, we also attracted gift aid of 60.33 GBP.

The clever bit off the back of this is the longer I stay, the more Myton Hospice receives. I may just stay forever beside the shores of this beautiful lake.

Sincere thanks for this wonderful gift.

I need rest. I am physically exhausted. I'm sleeping 10 or 11 hours a night. I am intending to start to homeward journey next week, ..................................maybe.

Gotland

2010-07-20T10:25:00.000-07:00

Friends. New friends. Old friends at home. Friends who help you out of a mess, or spend time shooting the breeze.

I rumbled back into VMCK after two days hard riding. Earnst drove over from home to let me into a cabin for the night. It would be an early start in the morning.

The lightning strike was very close. I was lying in my tent when the pressure and temperature dropped. I tasted the metal taste of Ozone and what hair I have on my head tried to stand on end. "OH shit". Nowhere to run. The strike hit behind the trees, and I slumped into my sleeping bag for a quarter hour before searching out a beer. I get ahead of myself though.

Gotland is a large island off the coast of Sweden. It's a popular, sunny, tourist destination and was on my wish list with no chance of fitting it in. Sincere thanks to the club for inviting me along. The ride out across the country to the ferry was very nice indeed. Five bikes and seven people, meeting others along the way. It is always special a gang of bikers riding onto a ferry, helping each other lash their machines to the deck plates, secure gear, and head for the cafeteria. Three hours to chill, before the hot sun of Gotland and a busy rally/meet sight.

Lots of bikes and smiling faces. Riders of all ages enjoying what we do. More a culture than a hobby. We are one tribe across all countries. It was a long weekend and if the bucket loos, heat, cold water washing, ever got us down, spare a thought for the people who put it together for us, and their wonderful hospitality. Thank you Gotland MCK.

I described the lightning strike which I remember vividly, to avoid describing the horrendous hang over I had the day before, after foolishly drinking with the Danish contingent. :-) We will do it again sometime Henrik !! I can wear one of those biker jackets with the integral airbag. I will also leave my tent open so that I don't have to figure out how it works.

Browsing around the walled town of Visby, and the ride out on Sunday with Ernst, Östen and Per. Wonderful memories. Also a night of Blues and dancing the night away with a lady biker with style. I think your bike looks wicked with the cherry blossom on the tank. I was deeply impressed.

I am now back at Domsand, Bankeryd. I have some serious sleep to catch up on. I think I have done my last crowded camp site or dorm. Flash packing and soft beds from now on. Quiet time with friends for a few days. Plan the trip home across Germany. Head home satisfied is the plan. I haven't finished here yet though. Time to relax, watch the harbour, think about that book I have never written. Would people read the rubbish I write?

Drowned Rat

2010-07-20T08:21:00.000-07:00

After two nights on a crowded campsight, and after walking the hills, and enjoying an afternoon on a boat on the fjord, I moved on in steady rain. I had two days to get back to Jönköping (notice the Swedish keyboard? Thanks Ernst), that meant I needed a minimum of 200miles today. Mostly I got away with it, but at tea time north of Oslo I got drowned. My gear stood up well, mostly. My gloves would take two days to dry out. I carry spare gloves under the saddle.

One way or another we are carrying injuries. My right ankle got chewed to pieces by midges, and infected. I needed to get to a pharmacy to sort it out. Elsa was running low on oil, but that is all it is I hope. I smelled the clutch a couple of times after the Trollstigen, but not since I topped her up. The worst casualty is Jane. The bluetooth in the helmet got soaked and stopped working. When I tried to remove it from the helmet, glued joints gave way. Jane is now totally mute. You should be careful what you wish for. I have vision only now for the rest of the trip. I better concentrate on speed limits. I see a trip to a dealer upon my return, warrenty in hand.

The Trollstigen

2010-07-20T08:04:00.000-07:00

It was in the Trollstigen pass that it all finally came together. We became the two wheeled cyborg. The first time a saw the pass I just slowed to a stop and muttered "oh shit". I have ridden the passes of the Alps and northern Spain, but the Trollstigen is unique. It is a perfect staircase up the near vertical face of a cliff. You can see every riser from the bottom, with the tour bus and campers making their way up it like toys on a children's miniature layout. Honestly I would have been more confident with a rope and climbing gear. It was one of the riding highlights of my tour. I came here to do this. First I took a ten minute rest to allow a tour bus to climb the ladder. Two campers vans were arriving, so I set off. On every hairpin the bike was horizontal. On a big tourer I got close to getting my knee down. The big boxer engine growled, booming off the rock face, and stuck behind a van the clutch burned a little. I made an unavoidable overtake which should have been hairy, but really thought nothing. Thinking would have undone me. I would have hesitated and stalled out. My BMW horn stopped one bus reversing onto me, then the hill start from hell. Elsa howled her displeasure. Jane's maps in the cockpit provided radar like views aiding and giving confidence. If I was thinking at all it was only spatial awareness. Angle of attack, speed, time off arrival. Then I reached the top. I flew by the seat of my pants. Gift shops and ice. I stopped to get the badge for the bike to prove we were here. At this point I met the only other bike I have seen with a UK plate. More lunatics let out of the asylum!

It doesn't matter which way you approach Geiranger, it is spectacular. Deep and sheer, Geiranger fjord is the most dramatic. You can ride from fjord to fjord and it doesn't get any better. Exhausted again I took a cabin for two nights. Tomorrow involves walking boots and a boat to cruise the fjord.

The Sexty Fear

2010-07-20T02:14:00.000-07:00

Thanks Paul. I'm writing some retrospectively to catch up. So much has happened. Biker rally Gotland later.

Jane, my GPS has been loosing her English. The Sexty Fear is the name of the road which I know as the Atlantic road. Sexty Fear is how she now says 64. Worse still Vatta and I are learning our Norwegian from her. We now use Norweglish!!

The Atlantic road is one of those must drive biker roads. It is a small section of the journey between Kristiansund and Molde, a real feat of engineering. Bridges linking tiny islets out into the Atlantic. Some of these Bridges are short but high, allowing ships to pass. There is a Wow around every corner. If you are out this way on two wheels, the Atlantic road is a must have. The whole length has only been open a couple of years.

I

I mentioned a Swedish biker, Bjorn last time, and his help when I was exhausted on the road south. This day I repaid him. On my way into Kritiansund I saw him standing listless beside his BMW at a closed filling station. I waved, he waived back but didn't look too good. I slowed, and pulled a very showy "U ey" and went back to him. He was in the same shape I had been the previous day. The station was closed so no coffee. No problem. I had a flask of hot strong English tea. Not his drink, but today it was welcome. Once he was revived enough we rode together, me keeping an eye on him, until we reached a ferry across a Fjord. Saturday services gave us a long rest, and at last the coffee he wanted. He continued on the Alesund with me waving goodbye, turning for Kristiansund and the beginning of the Atlantic road.

A very tired Bjorn.

According to Jane our next road is the Sexty Today ??

Update from Gotland Island

2010-07-16T08:23:00.000-07:00

Hi from Kevin's Press Officer.
Kevin has had no Internet access since Sunday. Kevin is at a motorcycle rally on the Island of Gotland with the Jonkoping motorcycle gang.

Kevin may get a prize for the "Furthest travelled to the event" category.

More news from Kevin in a couple of days.

Kev's Press Officer

Riding the Midnight Sun

2010-07-11T09:14:00.000-07:00

The Finns set off early for Abisco. I continued at a leisurely pace onto the Lofoten Islands. I was taking time out drinking tea and map reading, when Thomas rolled in on an old K series BMW. Another middle aged Swedish rider with time to play. We were joined by another Beemer with a Swedish couple on board. An impromptu rally almost. Out of the networking Thomas and I teamed up and sauntered the length of the islands together through sunshine and showers. The Lofotens are truly stunning. Don't pass up an opportunity to visit. Into the evening we explored, taking pictures. We had the idea of sharing a cabin and catching a morning sailing on the Bodo ferry. Checking out the ferry terminal Thomas announced that he thought we should jump on the boat, then ride south through the night in the sunshine. Since I had an invite to go on holiday to Gotland with VBMC next week, and I felt finished with the Lofotens (without appropriate company the romance of the place was of no use to me), so on an impulse we got on the boat.

Standing alone on the rolling deck of a ship bound for Bodo, the midnight sun literally on my face. If my body felt the cold, my mind did not register it. Thomas was sound asleep on a row of seats inside. I hadn't managed that. We set off across the southern Arctic landscape at 00:30, and rode until 02:15. I could go no further and had to sleep. I liked Thomas but we had been out of sync for hours. He was fit to ride and wanted to continue. I could not. I erected my tiny tent while he brewed us both a coffee. We talked and finished our drinks, said our goodbyes, then he rode off south on the E6, and I crawled into my bed.

As rough camping goes it was very good indeed. A picnic area on the outskirts of a village that clearly care about it, judging by the flower boarders. Heavy wooden tables and benches and a rest room with hot water and a socket to recharge my helmet. I could want for no more. I awoke at 06:00 rested, and enjoyed a gypsy breakfast. Refreshed I set off for Trondheim to break the back of the journey down to the western Fjords. I needed big distances quick to allow me to meet the VBMC gang to go to Gotland. There was nothing I wanted from the middle part of Norway this trip. I needed 500 miles and had bagged only 85 through the night. By 15:00 I was trashed and 150 miles short. Bjorn watched me stagger off my bike at the filling station, bleary eyed and unshaven. He was riding an R1150RT. The predecessor to my machine. We shared a coffee or two, and he poured over maps and plans with me, concluding that the Atlantic road and the Trollstegen pass were very possible in one day on Sunday. Conversation and coffee revived me. Thanks to Bjorn for that. It was a favour I would return further down the road tomorrow. The camaraderie of the motorcycling community is absolutely stunning. I've said it before. We really are one tribe.

I got a cabin soon after that. A shower, shave at last, and a hot meal of "dog food" and potatoes, and 10 full hours sleep, and I was ready to continue to Kristiansund and the amazing Atlantic Road.

Reunions

2010-07-11T09:01:00.000-07:00

The afternoon ride back to Alta was bleak, windy and cold, as you would expect. The local police had changed their site of operations, but were once again raking in the tourust dollars with a sneaky prone position in a ditch for the officer with the gadget. What seemed so unfair about my ticket was that anyone who knows me knows I don't speed. I boringly stick to the limit at home. I'm just not a chancer. I thought the limit was 90kph. It wasn't, it was 80. I made my case, but the officer was just not interested. He issued his ticket. No fixed fine, the sum is too big. 300 quid!

Cold, hungry and if I am honest, really tired, which was not great because I wanted another 100 miles before rough camping for the night. It was going to be a miserable post Cape night tonight. I was refueling the bike when one of the Finnish riders, Aki, drew up beside me. "HI. Do you have somewhere to stay?". They had a cabin close by and offered me one of the beds. I accepted without hesitation. That was the beginning of a fellowship that would last two nights sharing cabins, and one long, stunning day of motorcycling as a group, running for the temperate south. They were great company. easy going and patient when I would not increase my pace above the speed limit. Aki and Sami both had women and small children back home in Finland, who they clearly love very much. Two guys with a passout for a few days to hoon around Lapland on their bikes. They ride well to.

The Cape

2010-07-10T04:41:00.000-07:00

The last 22 miles across the island were precarious. Unprotected drops hidden in the cloud. It was blowing a gale. The fog lamps of the car in front led me in to the pay kiosk. 28 GBP, but worth it. I parked the Beemer with 2 arriving KTMs ridden by two Finnish bikers. We shouted greetings before the three of us leaned into the wind and struggled to find the famouse globe. Then fighting the wind again we made our way into the visitor centre for hot drinks, and with luck, a wait for the cloud to burn off.

The cloud cleared and the wind dropped. We got the views of the cliffs and out across the Barrents Sea. At some point I lost track of the Finnish guys which felt a shame. I met up with an exuberant German biker who wanted to build a cairn to mark our presence here. So we did that laughing a lot on and off for quite a while. Germany are still in the world cup and we are not, as Vernon pointed out. But that is Ok.

It was hard to leave Nordkapp. I have spent so long planning for today. I have invested so much energy and emotion in coming here. I met my challenge. 3000 miles to the Cape, solo. Alone was the hardest part for sure. There were times when I wondered what I had let myself in for. But here I am with the sea breeze on my face, and a very large grin. I hope we raise lots of money for the hospice at Myton.

vernon and I rode the scary roads together back to town for a quick hot dog and coffee lunch, before I went off in search of a bank to pay for my "helicopter ride" . I shared my reality patch speeding fine with Vernon who is clearly as daft as me, because he got it. "Harry Potter rides a BMW!" He said.

Helicopter Ride

2010-07-10T04:25:00.000-07:00

Sorry. I have no photos of this next bit. Shame.

Flying above the chill landscape. Fingers of God light reaching through the clouds, turning the Tarns to mirrors of liquid silver gold. I refill my champagne glass and sink back in the seat. No more riding today. At last, a herd of raindeer grazing in their summer pasture beneath the midnight sun. These trips are pricey but fabulous. Maybe I'll use the hot tub when I get back to my 5 star hotel.

Of course none of the above really happened. The reality is a Norwegian speeding fine that costs the same as the above, and threatened to spoil my arrival at Nordkapp, with a guilty sour mood. I stopped 22 miles short and took a dorm bed for the night. Vatta got me into the mess, so I let him weave the above reality patch for me. The way it works is you have to believe and feel the helicopter ride. It feels good. Then you are ready to move forward. Magic.

Dear Mum. If you are reading this. Dont worry about the Vatta stuff. Im just playing and being daft. If my therapist is reading this however. I have our September appointment in my diary, and will bring Vatta along!

Vatta Rides

2010-07-10T04:05:00.001-07:00

Its cold and grey. The mountain roads weave and I'm finding it hard to find the line. I came so far to do this, and just cant find the rhythm. I voice in my head says "LET ME". Vatta rides better than me. He makes poetry with Elsa's wheels. It's a trick of the mind, I know. I let him.

Counter steer, accelerate, drop, go. Roll, swoop, power, roll, shift position, rotate, flick her over, do it again. 1 hour. drop, roll, power, glide, 2 hours. 3. No sense of time or speed, or destination. No me. No Elsa. Just the road and the ride. @ one. Biker poetry.

Kevin arrives at Nordkapp

2010-07-06T10:22:00.000-07:00

Kevin arrived at Nordkapp at 10.35 CET. Scared the wildlife away with a very large Yessssss
Last bit was hard - blowing a gale, just waiting for the clouds to clear.

Expect the next update from Kevin in a couple of days.

Kev's Press Officer signing off.

Tromso

2010-07-04T04:23:00.000-07:00

I've done my sightseeing in Tromso and the Tourist office is open with free internet. Tromso is a small city, 60,000. It's a nice place but it's the setting that is truly special amidst mountains and sea, on an island. You can do it in a day, I did. I used the cable car to get the classic view looking down on the island and its harbour. Motorcycle parking outside the library provided a networking opportunity with bikers from all over Europe. I had an invite to join up with two Greek bikers heading for the cape. NOW ! No flexibility. They are riding hard. Well one of them is. I have two nights accommodation paid for and am exhausted, so I have to pass. Our paths will probably cross later on the E6. I'll putz about relaxing for this afternoon, pack the bike up in readiness for an early start in the morning. Then unless there is something better on offer, a super af canned curry and japatis. Good British food. Enough. It is 12C outside and the sun is shining. It's a good day.

Finnmark

2010-07-03T03:06:00.000-07:00

I have a window of dry calm weather so I'm going for it on Monday. Ahead lies another 500 miles of wilderness. I believe I have one of the most challenging days riding of my motorcycling career ahead of me. Alta is 9 hours and three hundred miles away. It is the only town between Tromso and the cape. There is no accommodation due to an exhibition/festival/competion. Language problem (mine not theirs). I need to be there to sort it out. I have no option but to camp. I have the gear to do this. It may not be pleasant. Maybe Odin intends to make me work a little harder for my goal. It's OK. I'll do it, and again on the way back if I have to (and once committed I will have no choice). Thankfully I have a dorm bed close to the cape, so once I've done my flags and footprints bit, I can retreat to a warm bed for a night. I get ahead of myself though. Alta to the cape is another days challenging ride on Tuesday.

My intention after Nordkapp is the Lofoten Islands still in the Arctic. It will take me two days riding to get back down that far.

I have no possibility of blogging until I am back south of Finnmark (unless they built a MacDonnalds at the cape!!) so I'll say bye for a few days. Nearly there. Mr Paul Burrows, Press Officer. I'll text from the cape, confirmation of arrival and sitrep. Can you post a note for me again please.

PS: No accommodation in Alta. Camping is now deffinate. Possibly wild camping at that. Whatever it takes now to nail it.

The Arctic Highway

2010-07-03T02:56:00.000-07:00

Over the next week or so I am to become well aquainted with the E6. Friday morning for two hours gave me a taste of what to expect. 8C and with a wind chill of 55 miles an hour, it's cold. I have more layers of cloathing on now. I dug my neckwarmer out of my luggage for today. I will need thermals soon. For the first time the heated grips are on. I could get by without, but there is no point. I am not a hero.

I thought it was snowing but it was dandilion seeds blown on the breeze. So many it really is like snow. Dandilion Snow. Lupins at the roadside gave way to Arctic cotton long ago.

There must have been twenty of them. Honda raiders returning from Nordkapp. The outriders reached me first. Blades, their pilots low in their cockpits. "Whom, whom whom". Then the Pans. Mostly single riders loaded with gear. Analogs to Elsa and I. Then bringing up the rear three Wings two up, women on the pillion. Finally a lone Blade dawdling, tired, having a rest. Hand jestures in our slip streams. Universal. Jedi heading for the warmth of the south. Mission accomplished. What nationality? It doesn't matter up here. We are all one tribe us bikers.

A cold lunch of sausage and apples eaten through my helmet. It's cold at last.

Abisco

2010-07-03T02:41:00.000-07:00

Two nights allowed me to take a day off and enjoy the national park. I cannot adequately explain just how special it is here. The wilderness. Elk on the roads, although I haven't seen a single Raindeer. The lake is almost a fjord. That is what it looks like. Until the 1980's there was no road through, just the railway line taking iron ore from Kiruna to the ice free port of Narvik. Majestic ice capped old mountains towering over tiny Sami communities.

I took the chair lift and then hiked to the summit of Njulla alone. I am amazed at where I have brought myself to, with Elsa and Jane. I sat for a long time looking down at the wonderful scene below. The chill reminding me that it is real. This most beautiful remote valley. Mountains, clouds, and lake shores merging in the mist. Cafe Creme and Florence and the machine. A sound track for a special day.

How long can you sit and watch the sun not go down? Midnight seems right. Time to sleep.

The Arctic Circle

2010-07-02T08:30:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Paul for posting in my absence. Much appreciated.

HI. Tromso Library free Internet. The first for days, and the last for five more at least. I am supposed to be sight seeing Tromso. It's small and I can spare an hour. It is early and still cold outside.

Fast forward from Tuesday. The rests of the slog up the Bothnian coast was uneventful. I overnighted in Gemmelstad just outside Lulea. It's a world heritage site and very special. Maybe I'll do a retrospective when I have time. I can see that this blog will not necessarily go in sequence, and will not be complete until some time after my return to England. I will get the story out one way or another. I imagine hours sorting photos to add, in my office at home.

Wednesday morning I began the mammoth journey across Swedish Lapland, crossing the arctic circle just south of Jokkmokk. I have photos but not the time to sort them just now. You'll see them later.

I think I know when we went wrong. It was in Jokkmokk. I had Jane's sound switched off. The navigating should have been easy. The Excitement of the moment had let Vatta loose at the helm, and an old couple were crawling at 8 miles per hour, risking tripping us up. A swerve, accelerate, a junction missed with Jane mute and unable to warn us, and we were on our way out of town due west. Vatta may not have been the problem. I am not that clever with Jane. I wanted Jokkmokk as a via point but could not figure out how to do town centre. I chose an address at random which was probably out in the sticks to the west, so here I am. Vatta enjoyed the stunted trees and cold swamp scenery, loosing track of time. The road narrowed and roughened, becoming gravel single track. Vatta dived for cover and left me to sort out the mess! I stopped. The first thing I did was switch Jane's voice back on. Too late. She could navigate us out of the situation, but was it wise to let her? The road she indicated was worse than the one we were on. Without switching the engine off (one cock up doesn't have to be followed by another) I took swig of cold water and thought. I turned around and started to retrace my route here from Jokkmokk. Hard but the low risk option and I'm alone. How long had Vatta been day dreaming and composing poetry? God knows, I don't. How many miles? Pass again. Jane wants 41 miles to get us there but I don't believe her. There is a ghost in that machine for sure. 15 miles it turned out. The cost of not paying attention? three quarters of an hour, a quarter of a tank of fuel, and stress. So lunch of tinned Tuna in Jokkmokk. Gather my thoughts and follow the E45 out of town for Kiruna.

It took all day. Mile after mile of dwarf trees, rocky terrain and still, cold pools. Refuel at Kiruna protecting us from a catastrophe, and load up with food at Swedish prices before Abisco, and then Norway. Between Kiruna and Abisco the road was out for 6 miles. Shale, then brand new hard core waiting for tarmac, and careless motorcyclists. Elsa crunched through it grumbling, back wheel wagging occasionally. Camper vans at 1o miles an hour to force us to slow bicycle left and right. Can't stop, so muscle past dominating the situation. If they break I will be off. If I yank on the front brake, ditto. Thank god it was only 6 miles. More of this to come I am sure. By the time we reached Abisko I was at the end of my strength. Warm food and a soft bed, and black outs to rest my eyes from the midnight sun.

No internet access

2010-06-30T14:40:00.000-07:00

Hi this is Paul - Kevin's press officer. Kevin has text tonight to say he crossed the Arctic Circle at Jokkmokk midday today and expects to reach Nordcapp next Tuesday.

Looking forward to your next update at the weekend.

Day 8. To Eat an Elephant

2010-06-28T13:25:00.000-07:00

No Pictures today. A serious slog to get north. KBO!

I only slept the four hours of darkness last night. I hope my body learns to sleep in the day light, or I'm going to be wrecked a week from now. I phoned ahead and booked a single room to myself for tonight. I want a bit of privacy when I arrive tired from a day in the saddle. That said my room mates so far have been good. The last two nights a Curdish guy, escaping terrorists in Circuk (no idea on the spelling on that one Im afraid). He lost his father to the gun men, then he got out. Emotional stuff even communicated with virtualy no common language. He told me this so I made him a cup of tea! How English is that?

The Bothnian Coast is long, stretching all the way North to the Finnish border. I settled into the rythme. Its a motorcycle meditation. Be in the here and now, or get flattened by a double length timber truck. Elsa says Ohmm. Ride 2 hours. Eat, drink, refuel carefully with the rehabilitated credit card, ride 2 hours more. Do it again. To eat an elephant you take one plateful at a time. Oh for some mountain bends. The scenery is nice. Woods, forest. You hardly see the sea which is close by on my right. The big bike is making light work of the mile. My shoulders ache but the bike is getting lighter. Only 5 lb lighter, but it feels more. I think I may be growing muscles! Onward north as far as Umea, a city of young people celebrating the light summer nights. It's a little chillier here.

Another hour of planning. I wanted a day off at the research station at Abisco, in Swedish Lapland. They have a dorm bed only, for one night. That doesn't give me the convenient base for a days hiking, and I'm not up for another dorm just now (people think I'm odd just because I sleep in my jacket and have herrings in my beard). It's taken a lot of buggering about but eventually I have a private room en suite in a neighbouring hostel.

If you hadn't guessed, I'm dawdling. I like Sweden very much, and there is foul weather in the north that I need to clear before my final run for the Cape. I need to here from a man in Tromso. Arrangements got a little more complicated for next weekend. Bed. Sleep please.

Logistics

2010-06-27T04:47:00.000-07:00

Credit Card - reactivated
Accommodation for tomorrow - booked
Provisions - replenished
Water. Petrol. Check
Email Tromso
Wash underpants
Forgot to wash talisman

I have to focus now. Population is sparse from here on up. Two days riding up the coast of the Gulf of Bothnia, then I start North West to Lapland and the Arctc Circle. So far this is the easy bit. Gulp! I'm still only 40% of the way there.

There appears to be a photo of me at Myton at the top of the page! All I have to do now is understand how! See earlier posts. I've managed to crow bar a few pictures in. I'm learning slowly.

Clever Dick

2010-06-27T04:42:00.000-07:00

At some point the clasp on the chain holding the talisman around my neck, gave way. How exactly the talisman then ended up all the way south in my underpants, I have no idea!

On to Gavle

2010-06-26T23:29:00.000-07:00

I rolled the bike to a standstill among down at heels apartments. This is where satnav says I should be for the hostel. I stand up in the saddle, lift my right leg extended to 90%, bend at the knee, heel to backside, lift higher and rotate. Wedged in between tank bag and luggage behind me on the pillion, this is how I dismount. The Lebanese guy comes over with an easy smile of greeting, taking in the bike and registration plate as he comes. From England? Yes I reply meeting his smile with tired eyes. Too long in the saddle. The miles are long at Sweden's 55 mile an hour speed limit. You are a strong man! he told me. I replied that I didn't feel strong. I am, he assured me. The bike and the journey testify. Ill except that with pride and caution.

I thought I had saved my credit card when I snatched it from the petrol cyborg 2 days ago. My provider has blocked it, so 50% of my financial back up is beyond use. I have an Indian call centre to talk to I guess. I'm learning to be independent and mobile. We are used to having a home and an familiar environment. That which doesn't kill me, makes me stronger!

Its Sunday. I'm taking another break to sight see Gavle old town and sort my shit out before the road gets more difficult. I need to be flexible and clever.

Thanks to Andreas from Germany for help with comms, and good company.

Midsummer Party

2010-06-26T04:54:00.000-07:00

A day of rest putzing around the harbour and paddling along the lake shore. an afternoon of socialising with new friends as preparations for the party begin. I survivied the party without needing my insurance. Fit to travel the morning after. A supreme act of will power. Real control. I allowed Vatta 2 goes at the singing and schnapps game, then asked him to stop. He did. Amazing! New friends for sure, swapping emails and numbers. Lots of advice for my onward journey and the possibility of a club outing to Gotland island on the bikes, if I come back through in 3 weeks. No reason why I wouldnt. I like these people and this place. We shall see. 1am bed but sober

10.30 start f0r Gavla, 300 miles North East on the coast. I found the rythme of the trip at last. Vatta is sleeping content. I turned Jane's sound off so its just the big girl and I this morning. she hums low, Ohmm, and I roll with her into long sweeping bends. A quartet making harmony. Let it be like this a while.

I need the help of a child to load pictures. still cant do it. ill try again because I have a few to share now. Success. Sort of. No formatting but got some pictures onto my post.

VBMC Motorcycle Club

2010-06-25T01:42:00.000-07:00

What a great crew. I found a home for a couple of days while my head catches up with where my body and a very large motorbike has taken it.

I nearly dropped Elsa last night (not in the same way Satnav Jane dropped me on the motorway !). Coming in to stop, lost, checking addresses and the man mowing his lawn looking at us, I lost my male spatial awareness thing. Can't multitask. Elsa gained some of her considerable half tone loaded, and we hang in the air for a few seconds, while my skinny frame took the strain. My poor legs and back !

Evenings with the crew who have wonderful English and are easy company. Tonight is their Midsommer Party and I have an invite. Assuming I survive the vodka, I move on tomorrow, rested and ready for what comes next.

When the petrol pump in front of you is card only, and you can`t understand the language the on screen instructions are in, press cancel and walk away. I am the guy who peed on the electric fence. I am very lucky still to have my credit card. I get stressed easily. No change there then.

Gavle tomorrow on the East coast. "Brave Biker Kev", "Cape Crusader", has to get on with the job in hand. That's for tomorrow. This afternoon I have a party to negotiate. Trickiest part of the journey so far.

Many thanks to the VBMC crew for supporting me and letting me use this terminal.

North East to Jönköping

2010-06-25T01:33:00.000-07:00

Photos later, I promise. Today I write from the VBMC bikers club house borrowing their terminal to catch up with what the press have said. 15 minutes of fame etc. But I get ahead of my self.

leaving Mcdonalds ( I will be nice about them. Decent salad and coffee at OK prices, and free WiFi) Satnav Jane put me back on the motorway telling me to continue for 71 miles. Then she flounced off and went silent for the afternoon. Elsa (The big bike) hums along doing what she does, eating miles. Trees endlessly matching north. The forest goes on forever. I (pitta me) concentrate on the monotonous job while vatta me asks "are we nearly there yet?" and watches the sunlight strobing through the trees. Finally at tea time we all (there seem to be 4 of us in this relationship Satnav Jane, Elsa, Vatta me, and me) arrive at the motorcycle camping and a very nice little cabin to stretch out in for a couple of days. Spell check is definitely Swedish. Must look at that soon. My poor spelling is exposed.

Niggles!

2010-06-23T03:16:00.000-07:00

Im out of my comfort zone so no surprise. Midsummer revellers kept us awake most of the night. By 6 I decided enough was enough. Early breakfast and away. Last night I failed to connect to the Hostels wifi which wound me up. Sorry Paul if I then wound you up. No c0verage in one part of the complex was the prpblem, not my recurring technoplegia. My new helmet has developed arthritis. The visor lock is playing up and im a long way from home. I chose not to spend ona new jacket for the trip due to escallating costs.,Mistake. The main zip broke this morning. Good news is it does up so I wont freeze. Bad news is I have to sleep in it!

THis morning was COpenhagen. I had no intention of going into the city. Im skittish enough without that. Satnav had other ideas. I should have guessed by theshort given mileage that something was amiss. I was on my way to a ferry I didnt want. The growth of the branches on the trees suggested I was going North. I stopped. Yep. North! Great directional skills but too late to prevent Satnav from doing what she does (Sorry ladies, today all awkward devices are female!). Given more specific instructions ie go via Malmo, she paused and announced RECALCULATING, and then took me sightseeing through the centre of Copenhagen. A is well that end well because here I am sitting in McDonalds at Malmo muk Koffee in hand. Muk ceaser salad coming up. THe crossing was abs0lutely stunning (and windy). Bridge tunnel bridge. Wow.

Love to all who texted messages to me. Why did I ever worry I would be lonely.

Next is the motorcycle club near Jonkoping, a party, and figure out how to recharge this pepper pad ona camp site. Bfn> I may be gone some time.

Ps Met a couple fresh back from Nordkapp. 2 degrees and stormy, and 50 quid t0 park their car!

Roskilde

2010-06-23T02:56:00.000-07:00

No sooner into the queue and meeting people. a young couple from Cornwall seeking a new life in Sweden. Property in the north is cheaper than the UK. The Dana Sirena took care of my needs for 18 hours to Esjberg, but my credit card took a huge hit. There's no cafeteria no board. The choice is a sandwich, or a la carte. The guinea fowl was superb, but with a large wine and a coffee set me back 35 quid. (ill get better with this key board I promise).

Day 2. Esjberg at 13.3o. petrol. Shes empty. I should have loaded her on with a third of a tank to clear the port. One of many minor mistakes I bet. The ride over to Roskilde was pleasant and uneventful. it was also a geograghy lesson. as a boy I passed my Geography O Level on Denmark. Ive never visited before! (My spell cheque iz in Danish!!)

Roskilde is a very pleasant town with the youth hostel on the harbour. I couldn't have wished for better. My meal out of cans was in stark contrast to yesterdays. Great company though. An evening stroll along the harbour front, and bed.

Myton

2010-06-23T02:45:00.000-07:00

McDonalds free wifi. sucess.

Im pleased i started from the hospice. the only ghost there loves me. so good to meet the team and put faces to names. the press photograghers and staff gave me a wonderful send off and it was great to be finally moving. lunch in cambridgeshire in the sunshine with friends. time to relax after the exceitement of my departure from Myton. Do you know, i felt dad traveling with me until then. another leavetaking and on to Harwich.

Zero Minus One

2010-06-20T05:35:00.000-07:00

The last few days I have had pre trip jitters. Five weeks alone is a big deal. So is 3000 miles each way. I'll allow myself the jitters, and get on with it.

Dave Hart came over on Wednesday and performed a biker audit of my kit, plans and methodology. I pass. Dave rides a 1200GS but arrived on a push bike for some strange reason (says a guy who is going to ride to the Arctic) Dave's a good guy. A pep talk from Robert in Switzerland. Thanks my friend. It helped. A last 'phone call from Mum to send me on my way. I have so much support, love and care from those close to me. How could I feel alone with the thoughts of so many to keep me company? Thank you all.

I'm packed and the bike is loaded. little bits and bobs tucked away into every available nook and cranny. She is still extremely heavy. There is no getting around the fact that she is a BMW R1200RT, and I am less than 11 stone wet through. This is also part of the challenge. We are what we are.

Tomorrow I will start me trip officially from Myton Hospice in Warwick. It was a tough call for me. I'm doing it because it gives them the opportunity for publicity, and I want them to get as much money as I can help raise. It is the anniversary of my fathers death on Thursday. I haven't been back to the hospice since that dreadful day in June 1998. He wanted one of the "new" Hinckley Triumphs, but I bet he'd be blown a way by the BMW.

Enough for now. I've nothing left to fidget with. Time to eat, then get some rest. Post soon.

Final Preparations

2010-06-14T04:46:00.000-07:00

Not long now.

Last week was dominated by lists. It's how I protect my trip from the effects of my lousy memory. I'm a project manager and it shows in my methodology. My study reflects it with its huge map of Scandinavia, and inspirational stock pictures of some of the places I will visit along the way (a quick thank you to my friend Colin for suggesting the Malmo crossing route months ago). I have flown over the roads of the Arctic with Google Earth. I've looked at the images from webcams. I've spoken to those that have gone before me, via Newcastle and Bergen. A plan can only go so far though as a friend pointed out to me yesterday. You have to be open for the unknown. How I cope with what the road throws at me will shape the trip. Let the road write the story. That's the whole point of going.

I'm also recording my experiences for those who follow later. I have benefited from those who have travelled to North Cape before me. I learn through mistakes, and I have made a lot of them. I'd like to say that I learn from the experiences of others, I try, and when I'm switched on I do. Mostly though I'm the guy who peed on the electric fence. Just the once....!!

I've booked some accommodation ahead. From the ferry port to Vatterbygdens Motorcycle Club and camping, Jonkoping, South Sweden, and on to the Bothnian coast on the 1st weekend. I have three nights with the motorcycle club, and a midsummer party to go to. Scandinavians and Vodka. Gulp!

If you're not thinking of loading a big touring motorbike for an extended road trip, feel free to skip this next bit. I'll try to write interesting stuff later.

This weekend I loaded the bike. I couldn't think of a way of working it all out other than to just do it. I did it three times! It started with luggage piled high on my bed, and equipment sprawled out across the kitchen floor. Shit there was a lot of it! Three hours later it was all on the bike. The BMW R1200RT is a superbly designed and engineered machine. She took everything I wanted. Heavy equipment, food, and cold weather gear low down in the panniers. The huge BMW top box is a suitcase for my clothes and wash kit. Just unhitch it and walk into accommodation with everything I need for the night. No fuss. Tank bag hand luggage never to be left unattended, and tent, bed and sleeping bag stuffed into a 40l dry sack, strapped and locked to the pillion. I weighed gear to ensure that I am not exceeding the design spec'. Worth doing I assure you. No hinges or fastenings strained, and no knuckles removed. It balanced and the centre of gravity was low. A good job. She was way too heavy. Tired and wet at the end of a days riding, parking, with an adverse camber, I could drop her. I also have to haul the whole rig onto it's main stand on ferry decks. A hernian would spoil the trip for sure. I stripped it all down and started again. The soap and shaving kit went, as well as food supplies. The Pinotage stays though. Better, but out of balance now. So I did it all over again seeking out every advantage I could gain. Much better but she is still heavy. The truth is that an RT loaded for a five week trip to the Arctic is never going to be light. She is no ballet dancer, but I bet she can still waltz.

Time to stop fiddling with the bike. Not long now.

We've raised about three hundred quid for Myton Hospice so far. The generosity of people is heart warming. Thank you all.

Wykehurst

2010-05-24T04:36:00.000-07:00

Wykehurst

This is a tenous link to my forthcoming journey, but couldn't miss it out. I've just spent a working weekend at the Wykhurst project in Kent. The Regia Saxon re-enactor society have an 11th century Long house that they have been building for ten years. See below.

When I saw this I was blown away. Sincere thanks to my friends Carole, Alan and Owen for sharing this with me. Thanks to the whole Regia gang for their hospitality. The memory of nights sitting around the fire in the longhouse will stay with me. Working on this building for a weekend was a wonderful thing to do.

Nordkapp. The tenuous link. Away from the long house I was camping, so got to review what I am taking with me next month. It was bloody cold ! I am going to need to invest in a four season bag. Also Tromso accommodation isn't falling into place. There is not much in the way of budget options available. I may end up camping, so need to decide what to take. My equipment pile is getting seriously large !!

Myton Hospice

2010-05-03T06:55:00.000-07:00

Several people asked me if I was making the trip to raise money for a charity, and the answer is yes. I'm raising money for Myton Hospices. Please see my fundraising page www.virginmoneygiving.com/KevinWinterburn

It's years since they nursed Dad at the end of his illness, but we as a family have never forgotten the kindness, care, and dignity given to him during those awful last weeks. Myton do a wonderful job and are well worth supporting. The Virgin site manages on line donations, sorting out gift aid so that Myton Hospices get more than £12 for every £10 donated. Thank you very much indeed to all who have already donated.

ORT (Operational Readinesss Testing) !

2010-05-03T06:19:00.000-07:00

I guess I'll always be an operations planner at heart. I need to check the new equipment I'm acquiring, ready for the trip. It's the May Day Holiday and the occasion is the BM Riders Club Keldy Cabin Rally. The Keldy Forestry site on the North Yorkshire Moors provided a reasonable approximation of Scandinavia, even down to the log cabins and hot tubs. The English holiday weather obliged with Arctic winds and hail. A generally cold weekend. Costa Coffee provided Scandinavian prices. If I could have found an IKEA, the simulation would heave been complete.

I'd forgotten how challenging some of the roads of North Yorkshire are, especially within the national park. It provided ample cornering practice to blow away the winter cobwebs. The weekend has deffinately improved my riding ready for the new season. It was a brilliant weekend with the BM Riders club gang. Two excellent ride-outs exploring the moors, and convivial evenings of like minded company. Ten other bikers to share the misery of cold British weather with.

I have been suffering technology overload. I need practice with the satnav and digital camera. Taking a phone call via my bluetooth helmet nearly dumped me on my arse! I'll disconnect that bit. Note to self: Crap at multi tasking. Updating this blog proved a problem. I'm writing it up at home with a hot mug of tea. Internet access proved impossible. Lots of free Wi-Fi, but I don't have a device to use it. Pickering public library has terminals and access, but was shut for the holiday, as was the Internet Cafe in Kirkbymoorside that I rode out to find. I need to check out mini notebooks, and the type of access available at Scandinavian campsites and hostels. It's a steep learning curve for sure!

It was inevitable that we stop at a pub I guess. Even though we are not drinking while driving, we just couldn't drive past.

Trip to Nordkapp 2010 is on

2010-04-21T08:46:00.000-07:00

I have a departure date for my trip to Nordkapp, on the Arctic coast of Norway. A return trip of 6000 miles across four countries. I've blocked out a month to do it. No fixed date of return.

There are several weeks to go, lots of research and planning to do. I need to sort my Com's out, otherwise this blog of my road trip is going to be a white elephant. I can't get away with being technoplegic any more. I need to get organised otherwise this trip is just going to sneak up on me, and catch me napping.

I have a weekend away with the BM Riders club at the end of the month. A chance to try out new gear, and listen to other guys who have been there before me.